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Posts posted by Stimpy
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55 minutes ago, DavidR said:
Does anyone have the spec for the black paint used in the 9 series speakers? Mostly used on the backs of the speakers.
Eastern Chem-Lac 37038 Lusterless Black H-8241. It's in the AR-9 Cabinet Plans that Ken uploaded. Cabinet Drawing 1 references Drawing 6, which lists the paint, in Note 6.
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The stock Unicon brand of capacitors, in my 58S's, still seem to sound fine. So, if your 10pi speakers have those, you'd probably be good for a while. If Callins, I'd upgrade (replace).
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2 hours ago, ra.ra said:
Ooh, I like those better. They look more like my AR58s speakers. It's a shame that more of the European styled speakers weren't available here? Or were they? I'm definitely no expert. Plus, those make me wonder how the 58s models would look with the AR91 woofer trim rings?
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1 hour ago, Starquest said:
These are nice speakers. My uncle had a pair of small ARs, similar to these.
Is there an AR model of this vintage that is smaller? Or is this the smallest one?
There was an AR-8B, that used a 6.5" woofer. Maybe that was it?
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Thanks! That's pretty much what I've been thinking too. Especially since it would be easy to unwind an inductor, and order a new cap. Now, I just need to get this out of my head, and onto paper and birch plywood! I tend to 'plan' forever, before any action physically happens. I aggravate myself sometimes, by being so slow.
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Hey Guys,
I want to build a center channel speaker, to match my AR90's. I'm not sure why I want to do this, other than I 'think' it will be fun. I already have some of the drivers (a pair of AR18 woofers, a pair of AR90 LMR mids, and a AR90 UMR dome), and a spare AR90 crossover, I can use. I might even have a set of AR91/92 crossovers, if I can find them, that I could try too. But, my main issue is finding a suitable pair of drivers, that when wired together, will match the impedance of a single LMR. Does something like that exist? Did AR ever build a true 8 ohm mid or woofer? Any thing from 4.0 to 8.0 inches would be fine. I'm thinking that 2 smaller drivers, would work better, as this should improve dispersion. I know I could change out an inductor and change capacitance, to compensate for an impedance mismatch, if needed. But, i have the crossovers, which I'd like to use as-is, if possible? Plus, I'm still debating the layout. I'm definitely going to use a tweeter/dome midway centered pair, with the tweeter over the mid, as in my 90's. But, then what layout; W LMR T/D LMR W, or W T/D W? I guess that hinges on if I use a 4-way or a 3-way crossover board?
Any suggestions? I know I'm already crazy, so that suggestion won't be anything new to me!
Thanks!
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10 minutes ago, JKent said:
- CSW Ensemble (new drivers)
- Advent 400
- AR-94Si
- CSW Ambiance
- Advent 400
Those look awesome...! Especially the AR-94Si's. I love that redesigned sock-less look. Well done.
Plus, this whole thread is pushing me to start looking for AR-18's. Once I finally finish the refurb on my AR-90's, that may be my next AR journey.
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20 minutes ago, Carlspeak said:
You've got a high likely hood of inductor cross-talk in a couple of spots due to their same orientation and close proximity to each other. One of the large coils in the left pic should be stood up on edge, In the right pic, stand the blue coil on edge. These changes should be beneficial to your speaker's performance. For more info. on inductor cross talk, visit Troels Graveson's web site. He has a nice chart there that shows recommended mounting of coils and distances.
I did exactly that on both boards. I stood up the left coil, of the large inductor pairs, and stood up the blue coil too. I guess I need to update my picture?
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Well that's bizarre! It looks to me like someone definitely was in there, as I wouldn't think they left the factory like that. It looks to be an easy fix. Or, pick up a set of 91 / 92 crossovers on eBay. They pop up fairly often. Then you'd have level switches too! And I'd try isopropanol on the glue also.
Good luck.
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Awesome write up. I love the chart, showing the changes and the audible results. And pictures. Everyone loves pictures! Though, next time, pop-up's would be even better! Nice work.
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3 hours ago, tuskman79 said:
Thanks for the replys. I do not have any photos but they look good. Slight lower grill pilling and one small veneer chip on the lower front corner. I tried 4 different CD’s of different styles of Music- classical, 70's Rock, newer Pop, Soul. Absolutely not the slightest sound came out of either tweeter on any recording and I jiggled the attenuation switches while listening with my ear up to them. Unfortunately I would have to roll the dice and buy them and then proceed with the diagnostics once I got them home. Just don’t want to have more into them than they are worth.
Well, it's good that you did a decent audition on the speakers. Plus, listening to the tweeters with your ear directly over it, is about all you could do in an owner's home. Kind'a hard to pull out a screw driver and a multimeter and ask to take the speakers apart! But, if you get the speakers, it' going to be bad tweeters, or bad caps, or more likely both. And you already know that the switches could use a cleaning too.
As to value and restoration costs, most here feel the AR9s are worth it. That you'd have to spend far far more than what this investment might be, to match the sound quality of the 9s, with a new pair of speakers. So, I wouldn't worry too much about exceeding their resale value, as you probably won't want to sell them, once they're 100% functional.
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The tweeters use an 18db per octave crossover, so I would hope they haven't been blown. It would be very unusual for both tweeters to be dead. As such, did you try more than one source, and several recordings? The reason that I ask, is the 9 and 90 cross fairly high up to the tweeters. They're almost super tweeters. So, is it possible that the tweeters were working, but the musical selection didn't exercise their range? Too low to notice? Still, for a pair of AR9s, I wouldn't give up so easily. If it does turn out to be defective tweeters, start with a lower offer; maybe around $300/$350. Work up from there.
Good luck!
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No specific model numbers, other than what's exactly printed on the labels: "Active Partners". AR was bad about that. Some of their designs used model numbers, while others had names. Plus, later in years, model numbers started being reused, due to the notoriety of specific classic models.
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Oh yea, read/search through this forum too. There's lots of 'which amp' threads, that are still applicable to your inquiry.
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Wow! That's an awesome pick up price on those AR-9's. If only I could find a deal like that.
As to amps, the Adcom amps that you're already using are often mentioned as being a good match for AR speakers. But, there's a lot of vintage amps that should work too, one being the classic war horse, the Hafler DH-500. Also, off the top of my head; Carver; M-1.5t, TFM-35, TFM-45, and Sunfire Signatures. SAE and Soundcraftsmen had some nice sounding big amps. The Sumo Andromeda. Yamaha has some very good high power amps with high damping factor, MX-1000, M-2, M-80, M-85. I'd look for Acurus A250, or Aragon 4004 and 8008 amps too. Parasound, HCA-2200, or one of the new Parasound Halo amps. Also new, Emotiva has a cult following for their mono and high power stereo amps (internet direct only). Even look at pro amps. The Crown XLS amps get very good reviews, and output very high power into 4 and 2 ohm loads. And they're cheap too. Other than those, you can always go Krell or Threshold or McIntosh!
Good Luck!
Picked up some more AR speakers
in Acoustic Research
Posted
I think I'll just stick with Rust-Oleum satin black. That makes my brain hurt less...!