scottynconnie Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 How do I tell which version legacies are by the serial number? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Analogman Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 I don't think you really need serial numbers to identify the version you may have, you can tell by appearance (but to answer your specific question, I have no idea how to read Jensen/Advent serial numbers) But I do know all you have to do is just look at them The tweeter mounting flange (style and size) and a few other minor details like the badge being on the kick panel on the last incarnation instead of the tweeter They all were a 10" woofer 1" ferrofluid cooled tweeter design built by Jenesn Just google advent legacy, you'll get all the results you need For what it's worth - back around 2008 it was raining Legacys around here and I wound up re-edging and selling/giving away more than a few pairs Don't think there is a great deal of difference between the versions I, II or III It's a good woofer to do your first re-edge on if you've never done one First ones I ever did I had two pair with smooth cones and the rest ribbed - all were original owner speakers (just purchased at different times) with correct parts so you may see them either way and both are correct If you are shopping a used pair, no matter the incarnation, after you get them, make sure those screws closest to the tweeter domes are snug - they all work loose over time and eventually the fluid can leak out as well as lead to other tweeter issues (that you can hear) I have fixed more than a few problems with this simple solution, don't be shy, just a gentle tightening is all they need (I've never had a bad one) The dome proper is in fact a part of that decorative flange Just a gentle snug Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottynconnie Posted February 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 thanks craig, what are your thoughts on the sound quality of them? so theres not much difference in the different series? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Analogman Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 On 2/7/2018 at 8:08 PM, scottynconnie said: Can play loud, reasonably clean sounding speaker, not a lot of inner detail (which is important to me) but gets the job done decently and is a durable build Decent bottom end and the tweeter is capable And as is the case with ANY loudspeaker system, how "good" it sounds will be source depenedent as much as anything I bought them, re-foamed them, road tested them for a week and then sold them, everyone that bought a pair from me came back to say how happy they were (mostly middle aged men) Sold one woman a pair, she too was pleased Often sold them a receiver too (folks wanting to "get back into it" - relive the college days, play records again type deals) Typical amplification being stuff like Marantz 2220Bs or the Pioneer SX-780s and the like (which 12 years ago you/I could buy all day long for a $100 or less - them days are long gone) My buyers' Musical tastes ran the gamut So, typical late 1970s early early '80s decent stereo Just a good quality American made utility speaker from back when those were a reality I never did try them with tubes so all my comments pertain to sand amps only - again, appropriate for their time For a pair that needed surrounds I would never pay more than $25 and after I serviced them I sell/sold then for between $125 and $200 depending on condition Always used Rick Cobb's surrounds Most of them show up in good shape because they're built of construction site type materials Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottynconnie Posted February 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Thanks so much, which color wire goes to which driver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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