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About Analogman

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    Concord, California

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  1. City (location) would be helpful in making a decision to make an offer California's a big place Craig
  2. Still have the AR badge Thank you Craig
  3. AR Badge still available Thank you Craig
  4. and another one drifts off into oblivion...............................................................
  5. Hello to all, Not a classic New England loudspeaker but here's hopin'! I have taken on a project for a dear friend that takes care of me at ACE hardware - to try and get this old Philco up and playing again - it was her Grandfather's I need the speaker, the complete unit with an audio output transformer There are TWO different versions of speaker for this model (chassis) but they treat them differently depending on the cabinet choice The one I need is broken down as follows: List number #29, PART# 36-3014 cone and voice coil assembly - S19 speaker List #32, PART #36-3987 referred to as the "S19" speaker field coil assembly, THEN there is list# 28, PART#32-7019 OUTPUT transformer for S19 Here is the set's schematic: https://www.tubesandmore.com/schematics/philco-radio-television-corp/38-15-121124 Bottom line, I need the correct field coil/speaker assembly/output transformer for this radio but I can be plenty happy with close enough if it's a matter of just adding some resistance Philco 38-15 Code 124 Run 33 Measurements hole to hole DIAGONAL = 8" - Measured just hole to hole just straight across = 5 and 3/4" Been told (but I have not verified) any of these could be made to work without reinventing the wheel 84B, 60, 37-60, 37-61, 37-62, 37-610B, 37-610T, 37-620B, 37-2620B, 38-62, 38-9T, 38-10T, 38-60, 38-62 Would really be wonderful if someone has something that would work Any help would be well received Thank you all Craig
  6. Yes, like they were measuring two different boxes (systems) altogether
  7. I haven't been argumentative about anything Kent. If standing one's ground on points that one knows to be FACTS is "argumentative" to you or anyone else then so be it. You have always been very kind and helpful towards me and I appreciate that. I have acknowledged and thanked you for it publicly on several occasions. Same to be said about several other folks here as well. But I am not a person that's going to just go along to get along when some folks are just talking nonsense, and or, spreading misinformation or insisting on things that just aren't so This thread was a waste of time as the initial description of the issue was articulated horribly, right out of the gate, (and NOW we know, inaccurately) The first post would have led anyone to believe the OP's situation was the result of a transient event (mode switching or whatever with the amp turned way up) Craig
  8. Why would they? Ah, but actually someone did, right out of the gate - Aadams You stated in your second post to this thread that you had already addressed the foam on your woofers when suggested as a possible cause of your complaint by Aadams IN THE FIRST POST TO THIS THREAD AFTER YOU STARTED IT FOUR MONTHS AGO So, after all this palaver, the problem was a poorly done re-edge job - one done by yourself? And you're throwing insults in my direction for making the mistake of trying to help you Gotta love it Craig
  9. Don't know why ANYONE is buying or fooling with the rape job, over priced chinese CTS repro crap....................... .................when, for THE MOMENT, just about every incarnation of that CTS masterpiece is for sale on ePay in quantities ranging from singles to assembly line cases and ALL New Old Stock, AND every example I've researched was being offered by sellers with monster positive feedback(s) If the repros are what you want you can buy them off epay for about half of what the friendly guys at simply speakers etc et al. are gouging you for - the L25 JBL chinese repros too The chinese L25 repro can be had for around $25, SS is gouging at $79.95! Ridiculous - I've had some interesting correspondence with 'em on the fact that they're just re-selling the same junk off the net to which they make no denial (did say they had plans in the works to adjust their asking downwards, instead it's actually gone up) Same driver, same factory same everything as the $25 unit - they even use the same STOCK PHOTOS sans SS paper sticker on the magnet Guys, please don't support this crap until there is no other choice.............................and even then.......: - ( Craig
  10. What's the end game debating the merits of reviews for speakers, now in some instances, pushing 60 years old? I personally have owned "2-ax"s "5"s "3"s and "3a"s The "5" with nothing more than fresh woofer edges was a better sounding, less dated sounding all 'rounder than any incarnation of the "3" that I have owned - that was my experience With a fresh set of by-passed Daytons they were holographic (I don't deal in BS hyperbole) they threw out a sound field that went well beyond the boundaries of the speakers, I mean WAAAY out, almost like a really well implemented Hughes AK 100 type circuit - few visitors believed they were just being powered with a modest ("vintage") old Marantz and nothing more And I have absolutely NO idea how I can, could or would want to qualify, quantify, justify or explain my real life experience so it fits any of the narratives and rubberchickenmographs of these dusty old reviews - THEN or NOW All I know is what happened to me and how today I am still kicking myself in the ass for selling those "5"s for, you guessed it, money to apply to a clean pair of "3a"s that couldn't hold a candle to those "5"s - why? I do not know The "3" is a cult of personality - I think a lot of people are as in love with the old stories and ad copy as they are with the lab results done on NEW examples 40 50 or even 60 years ago and which is absolutely meaningless today thanks to time For any make, not just AR, any of 'em, JBL, Kloss stuff Advent, Altec etc Just enjoy your speakers and what's left of what they once were Craig
  11. Great! Sounds good, you'll be fine As for the flux, you don't need flux for aluminum work unless you are soldering aluminum Like I posted earlier up this thread, SP-44 or similar is fine for everything else Not a big deal no matter though Craig
  12. I would think the whole what's trying to be accomplished thing is pretty much the same for all of us - to restore the pots to "as new" working order or as close to it as is possible Many ways will work that's for sure but no need for a sledge hammer when a scalpel will do - and do less damage/shorten the life of the pot in the meantime as well I personally see no merit or upside to washing anything (with water) I'm going to take apart anyway - especially anything electronics related If there is so much corrosion on the wiper (the green rot) that I need to give it an acid bath first to determine the condition of what I'm working with (if it's still serviceable) then I can pretty much make the call right then and there I need another candidate That's the road I like to take Craig
  13. I think the Aetna-Pollak pots are of very high quality, especially for a vented wire wound type - they're just one of those parts that's never, if ever, serviced by typical consumer type end users Out of sight out of mind and for 99.9% of the typical AR owners back in the day and were given little thought if any until they misbehaved, generally decades after the speakers were new It's amazing how long so many of them have lasted with zero service - same as with JBL and a few other who used similar types Those same pots in a studio or pro environment would be on a list of things receiving regular and routine maintenance It's not the pots' fault
  14. "44" is Kester's product line 60/40 is perfectly fine but it is NOT a eutectic alloy Eutectic solder melts at a slightly lower temperature and solidifies (goes from liquid to solid) almost instantly so less chance of grey, grainy or cold joints - also gives you better wetting This characteristic is also of great help when you are dealing with delicate or hard to hold/get to joints If you are preparing to purchase some solder get Kester 63/37 - Parts Express or any of the big vendors will have it It will cost you 2 or 3 dollars more than the 60/40 but it is well worth the nominal increase The Kester # is 24-6337-0027 And yes, I think the .031" wire is the most versatile size wire The number I gave you is for a pound - I quite buying the small tubes a long time ago - the costs for those will eat you alive over time, especially if you do even a moderate amount of work The 1/2 ounce tubes should cost around 3 bucks, so no, that's not such a great deal UNLESS that price includes shipping If that's all you want or need, buy it from Parts Express when you order your caps so the shipping won't eat you alive - they have 63/37 in the small 1/2 ounce tubes as well (I gave my opinion on what caps I would use in your other thread) If you elect to go with my advice then you'll be able get all of your parts and supplies from the same vendor - i.e. one order - one shipping cost https://www.parts-express.com/kester-pocket-pak-solder-63-37-0031-050-oz-tube--370-053
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