AR5 - Are the drivers correct.

[jimdbird]

Hi, I'm a new member getting my first AR's. (AR3a, and AR5.)

My sound system was in serious need of upgrading, so I picked up a set of AR3a,s, they look really good, I can't wait to hook them up. To go with them, I picked up some AR5's on Ebay.

I knew the AR5's were rough when I bought them...I was planning on new surrounds and caps, however after getting them, I am not sure if the mids or woofers are originals.

I'm adding some pictures hoping someone will tell me what I have...I have a 30 day option to return them.

Here are the pictures.

Thanks,

Jim

[RoyC]

Welcome to CSP, Jim...

Both tweeters and one mid look original. The midrange with the yellow wires is a later back-wired version that has been converted to front-wiring. You should make sure it is not the lower impedance AR-3a/11/10pi midrange by measuring dcr. If it measures 6+/- ohms it will work. If it measures 3.5+/- ohms, you will have to add a 2.5 ohm resistor in series with it.

The woofers appear to be later AR replacements. Pull one to see what kind of magnet it has.

Are there serial numbers on the back of the cabinets?

Roy

PS You should remove those grille staples stuck to the front of one of your tweeters.

[jimdbird]

Hi Roy,

Thanks, for the welcome.

The speaker with the yellow wires is serial #22275. The resistances are: Woofer 1 ohm, mid 3.5 ohm, tweeter 5.4 ohm.

The other speaker is serial #19874. The resistances are: Woofer 1.4 ohm, mid 4.4 ohm, tweeter 2.4 ohm.

Note: I may need a better multimeter.

Both woofers have a square magnet with a red sticker that reads..."Service Replacement Unit For further exchange the original purchase Bill of Sale required."

Question: Does it look like I have the right parts to build back to an original AR5, or should I return this one and look for another one? I want to use a set of original AR5's as a center channel, with the AR3a's as front L/R, and AR4x's as surrounds.

Jim

[RoyC]

Hi Roy,

Thanks, for the welcome.

The speaker with the yellow wires is serial #22275. The resistances are: Woofer 1 ohm, mid 3.5 ohm, tweeter 5.4 ohm.

The other speaker is serial #19874. The resistances are: Woofer 1.4 ohm, mid 4.4 ohm, tweeter 2.4 ohm.

Note: I may need a better multimeter.

Both woofers have a square magnet with a red sticker that reads..."Service Replacement Unit For further exchange the original purchase Bill of Sale required."

Question: Does it look like I have the right parts to build back to an original AR5, or should I return this one and look for another one? I want to use a set of original AR5's as a center channel, with the AR3a's as front L/R, and AR4x's as surrounds.

Jim

Jim,

The drivers' dcr can't be accurately determined if they are still in the circuit. For example, your woofers should be around 6 ohms when disconnected. The crossover components and level controls will throw off your readings.

Your woofers may have been those used in the last version of the AR-2ax, with an accompanying change in the 2ax midrange circuit to compensate for a slightly different response. There are also similar 10 inch AR woofers that were used in models of the late 70's, and into the 80's. They *may* work OK in the AR-5, but they will not be the same as the original alnico magnet woofers which were originally in your cabinets. (Based on the serial numbers, I believe your AR-5's were manufactured in 1971, or late 1970.)

Whether you should return them or not depends on what you paid, and how much you are willing to spend to make them "right" (if necessary). If the cabinets are in excellent condition, drivers can be found to make them "original" again. If the cabinets are only so-so, maybe a better pair would be the way to go. AR-5's are still flying under the radar, so decent deals are still out there.

...sending you a PM.

Roy