Repair possible for Advent tweeter?

[mrbruce4]

I have a dead tweeter from a New Large Advent (square magnet)that I would like to inspect for a possible repair, just in case it might be possible.

Has anyone opened up an Advent tweeter, if it's possible without destroying it? If so, what procedure and tools worked? Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

[Guest One-Shot Scot]

>I have a dead tweeter from a New Large Advent (square

>magnet)that I would like to inspect for a possible repair,

>just in case it might be possible.

>Has anyone opened up an Advent tweeter, if it's possible

>without destroying it? If so, what procedure and tools

>worked? Any other suggestions?

>Thanks.

First, make sure that the tweeter is really dead. The amplifier wire connectors are located on the back of the tweeter, but sometimes there is a bad connection between the connector and the tweeter wire terminal. Also, make sure that he connection between the tweeter wire and the terminal is solid.

Touch the live speaker wires coming from the crossover to the front terminals that connect to the tweeter wires and see if you get any sound. If you do, you will then need to solder the connection between the connector tab on the back of the tweeter with the wire terminal on the front.

I have salvaged two "dead" tweeters using this method. If your tweeter is really dead, I cannot advise you because I have never taken one apart.

[mrbruce4]

It truly is dead. I guess I should have said that I had removed the tweeter and it measures open - both across the rear terminals as well as across the front points.

I asked the original question because I've read that others have opened up woofers and sometimes been able to repair an open voice coil winding. Since the tweeter is currently useless to me, I'm open to suggestions before I just toss it.

[Pete B]

>I have a dead tweeter from a New Large Advent (square

>magnet)that I would like to inspect for a possible repair,

>just in case it might be possible.

>Has anyone opened up an Advent tweeter, if it's possible

>without destroying it? If so, what procedure and tools

>worked? Any other suggestions?

>Thanks.

If it reads open it is usually a broken lead in wire or completely

burnt out voice coil. This type of failure is more common with solid lead in wires, they were smart with the Advents as they used tinsel

lead wires. Still, it's possible that it failed at one of the joints from the tinsel to the solid for some reason. It's sometimes possible to open the driver and repair the break by soldering a jumper wire. It would also be helpful to figure out how to open the tweeter in a way where it can be reassembled. I have found solvents

over the years that will sometimes dissolve the glues used.

I'm also interested in this as I'd like to remove the thick old style ferro fluid and either leave it out, or replace it with the newer lower viscosity (and more stable with temperature) ferro fluids. I'm not ready yet to open any of the Advent tweeters that I currently have:

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/dcbo...g_id=1782&page=

[mrbruce4]

Thanks Pete. I'll continue watching your posts to see if you find a way to open the tweeter without destroying it. I've followed your comments about Advents for about a year and am grateful for your willingness to freely share your knowledge.

[Pete B]

Hi Bruce, I don't have one yet that I'm ready to give it a try

on, but I'm looking at one here. I'd give this a try:

1. Remove the screen, looks like hot glue that's holding

it on, I wonder if a heat gun would soften it? Remember

not to hit the paper cone (aim away) as the paper might

ignite.

2. Desolder the lead in wires from the terminals.

3. Trace around the outline of the red paper cone, to aid in

re-alignment during re-assembly. A mark to get the rotational

position right is also helpful.

4. Not sure of the best way to release the paper cone, it

looks like sliding an exacto knife under the edge keeping

pressure toward the face plate might do it. I'm not sure

of any chemical that might release the glue without damaging

the paper.

This is how I'll probably do it, I understand if you think it's

too complex. It will probably be some time before I get around

to trying this. I might just wait for a completely dead tweeter

to show up.