simark Posted September 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 >>I ordered a tweeter from Larry at AR-Vintage. >>Stan: >>You will receive an AB-Tech tweeter. Ken Kantor has been>taking some measurements on this driver, and in a few days>will be posting a suggested crossover change to make it sound>much like the original.>I sent an e-mail to Larry asking if I am receiving a replacement AB-Tech tweeter or an actual 40 year old AR-3 tweeter, but let's assume will I receive the AB-tech. Should I replace just the blown tweeter and leave the good one, or should I replace both and become a heathen? The other tweeter seems to be perfectly fine and happy where it is.Considering that the x-over capacitors have most likely drifted and the level pots are set where there are no drop outs, the speakers won't put out identical outputs anyways.What is your opinion about this?>>I was wondering>>how do you join the tweeter leads to the termminals or>splice>>the leads together. I've tried solder, but this did not>work.>>Right now one of the leads is barely making contact, if I>>breathe on it, it goes intermittent.>>Your speaker has front-wired connections. The replacement will>have back-wired push-connector tabs. You will need to drill or>cut out a bit of the backbore rabbet in order to make room for>each of the two tabs. 0.187" StayCon female connectors>can be crimped to the ends of new wires coming from the X-O>board to the tweeter tabs. The yellow and green wires must>remain connected to the front three-wire terminal strip as>they supply signal to the mid- you can leave the black wire>also; it will no longer connect to anything once the old>tweeter is removed.>>If you replace your damaged tweeter with a viable original>front-wired tweeter, you will need to splice its thin aluminum>wires to copper wires. Several suggestions- including wrapping>and dabbing with silver ink and crimping Al and Cu wires>inside a small hollow push pin from a multipin connector have>been made, but that does not look like your problem.>>Looks like you have removed the potentiometers and replace>them with L-Pads? If so, remember this size L-pad is rated at>15 W, whereas the original pots were rated at 25 W.>>Cheers,> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted September 6, 2007 Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 Stan,>I was wondering>how do you join the tweeter leads to the termminals or splice>the leads together. I've tried solder, but this did not work.>Right now one of the leads is barely making contact, if I>breathe on it, it goes intermittent.The AR-3 tweeters had very difficult to solder aluminum leads. There is a conductive glue that has been suggested for this purpose. Try www.allelectronics.com in the soldering accessories section.Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyC Posted September 6, 2007 Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 >but let's assume will I receive the AB-tech. Should I>replace just the blown tweeter and leave the good one, or>should I replace both and become a heathen? I would...They are very different animals and will never sound the same.The AB Tech tweeter data that John mentioned is being reviewed relative to the AR-3a 3/4" dome tweeter and the 3a crossover. It may not be as applicable to the larger AR-3 tweeter and AR-3 crossover.Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnieo Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 Stan:, sorry, I think I misled you! I thought you had AR-3a speakers, not AR-3. Yes, Larry would send you the correct original driver!Sorry for making that mistake!! but like Roy says, soldering is not easy. Cheers,John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simark Posted September 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 Well gentlemenI received the tweeter from Larry at AR-Vintage - (Thank you very much Larry) - and started installation it right away.As I was in process, I was checking the continuity between the yellow and black wires to make sure I was getting some sort of reading. Lo and behold, zilch. I checked the two aluminum wire crimps and they looked good. Just to make I remelted the solder joints on the tabs on the front and rechecked. I had a signal, so I went back and tested the old tweeter. Still 0.012 ohms, but curiously, that is what the new tweeter rang up.So, long story short, if I had touched up my solder joints I might have avoided replacing the tweeter. Then again, i learned a heck of alot about these speakers and have gained a little more appreciation for them.Anyways, thanks guys for all the help and suggestions. Now if I could only get the pots in my AR-4x's to work...Stan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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