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AR-48BX


Guest Charbear

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Guest Charbear

I hope one of you guru's out there can help, make a recommendation, etc. I have an old classic pair of AR-48BX's that I really like. I purchased replacement woofers from Layne about 6 years ago because the cones were torn (blown?). Now, 6 years later, the same thing has happened again (on at least one speaker). The foam is fine. I run an Adcom Amp (200W total, 100/channel) and the volume has never been above 1/3.

At ~$150/pair, this is getting pricey.

Is this normal repair/replacement?

Why do you think this has happened again?

Is there a better/more robust replacement available?

Thanks!

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Guest dogmeninreno

>I hope one of you guru's out there can help, make a

>recommendation, etc. I have an old classic pair of AR-48BX's

>that I really like. I purchased replacement woofers from Layne

>about 6 years ago because the cones were torn (blown?). Now, 6

>years later, the same thing has happened again (on at least

>one speaker). The foam is fine. I run an Adcom Amp (200W

>total, 100/channel) and the volume has never been above 1/3.

>

>At ~$150/pair, this is getting pricey.

>

>Is this normal repair/replacement?

>

>Why do you think this has happened again?

>

>Is there a better/more robust replacement available?

>

>Thanks!

My guess is that the replacements may not be original AR replacement parts..Layne usually sells an after market replacement. Why don't you consider re-coning the original woofers (assuming that you still have them)? Clearly something is destroying the woofers and it could be the crossover being tired. I would check the xover components and replace any caps with ones of equal value if the originals are out of spec. It is somewhat unusual to burn up 2 woofers and not your tweeters. Fusing may be another option. Dale

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Guest dogmeninreno

The 48BX shows a nonimal 6 ohm impedence so your Adcom amp is probably capable of much higher output than 8 ohms. What model is it?

Dale

AR48BX Floor

10" cone woofer

4" cone midrange

.75" dome tweeter

Response: 45-32,000

Power: 15-150 Watts

Imped: 6 Ohms

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Guest Charbear

Thank you, Dale! I appreciate the reply.

GFA-545, 100W/channel into an 8 ohm load (been so long I had forgotten the speakers were 6 ohm). Would not explain why they blow at only 1/3 volume though, right?

Unfortunately, I trashed the old woofers 6 when I bought the replacements from Layne.

Whatever the plan, I need to refrain from having to replace them again.

Suggestions?

Buy a better woofer?

Replace the woofers with the same from Layne and add 2 ohms of resistance to each speaker somehow?

Replace the woofers with the same from Layne and play music at no more than 1/4 volume to be safe.

Buy new speakers (would rather keep the old AR's if I can resolve the problem)?

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Guest Charbear

Also just remembered. I think, one night in a drunken haze (just kidding...sort of), I recall seeing the clipping LED's flash a few times and I just dismissed it. I mean it was at ~1/3 volume from a 100W/channel Amp into a 150W speaker so I convieniently eliminated it from contention. Hope this helps also.

Thanks!

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Guest dogmeninreno

The Adcom GFA-545 is a good amp for your application. Remember that the Adcom runs with no restriction on wattage delivered and has pleanty of capability to destroy speakers even at 1/3 volume on the preamp. I have my doubts that this was the cause but the distortion indicator is not a good sign in any case. IMO your best bet is to check the woofer cap in the xover to be sure it is within tolerance. Next I would put an in line fuse in each speaker lead. I would also attempt to procure the proper woofers that are the right impedence and are rated for the 150 watts RMS. Perhaps Parts Express has them. I also see these speakers on ebay once in a while. Good luck, Dale

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>Also just remembered. I think, one night in a drunken haze

>(just kidding...sort of), I recall seeing the clipping LED's

>flash a few times and I just dismissed it. I mean it was at

>~1/3 volume from a 100W/channel Amp into a 150W speaker so I

>convieniently eliminated it from contention. Hope this helps

>also.

>

>Thanks!

I'm not clear on what the problem is here, do you actually mean that there is a rip in the cone? Or does it sound bad, buzz or something?

I'd bet that the AR woofer will not handle more than about 50 to 75 Watts RMS continuous, say with a test tone at 100 Hz, probably less. The 150W rating takes into account the fact that music is dynamic having an average level far below the peak level. That amp is a good one, it probably does about 120W into 6 ohms, with 2 to 3 dB of dynamic headroom for peaks of about 200W. This is fine if you do not push the system hard or the amp into clipping but it is a lot to expect a single 10" driver to handle under heavy use.

There are some 10" drivers that might handle this power better. I ran the Peerless 1727 in AR-2axs with a 200W/ch amp with similar headroom into very slight clipping without a problem. But I didn't do it repeatedly or for an extended period of time.

I don't know the 48BX speaker well, but you probably need a system with more power handling and replacing them is probably your best bet.

If your determined to try a driver replacement it would help if you tell us the cutout diameter, driver outer rim diameter, and number of mounting screws. Measure the DC resistance of the woofers, and trace out the woofer crossover if you can.

Pete B.

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