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Dashiell's AR-5 speaker project


Dashiell

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Hello all. Newb here, learning slowly from the community. Many thanks for all of the information posted about AR speakers and other classics, it's been hugely helpful.

At a hifi equipment swap last fall, I purchased a non-sequential pair of AR-5 speakers. The seller was generous enough to include a spare crossover, mid, and tweeter too. I think I probably got a really good deal.

After hours of reading on this forum,and some practice refoaming a couple of bookshelf speakers, I finally feel comfortable enough to open these AR-5 cabinets and work on the woofers. I'm hoping to post progress pics in this forum to keep track of this project and to ask questions as they arise.

To start, here is the earlier of the two speakers, number 27583. 

AR5 Speaker 1-03.jpg

AR5 Speaker 1-01.jpg

AR5 Speaker 1-02.jpg

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Thanks for replying Adams. I think the AR3a restoration guide might have been what originally brought me to classicspeakerpages if I recall correctly. I've got it downloaded along with some of the schematics for the crossovers and some other general documentation too.

I didn't describe the dark ring very well. Hopefully this picture helps point it out. It starts right below the adhesive from the old surround inner lip and seems to be maybe an inch or an inch and a half thick. 

WooferCone.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Aadams said:

Unless the paper cone feels compromised I would say you don't have a problem. It is an odd pattern of discoloration. 

That's great to know, I think I'm ready to re-foam in that case.

I think maybe that area had felt a little bit tacky, if I recall correctly, but I'll check again tonight. I don't recall feeling that the cone had any tears or punctures or was compromised in that sense. Thanks again for the advice.

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I've got the glue drying on the woofers now, I think they are ready to go back in, when I get to that part. The foam tape is on order from PE for when the woofers go back in too.

I guess the next step it to remove the mids and tweeters. My desoldering skills are not the greatest - should I skip this part? Or just take it slow and keep the tie points from heating up too much?

AR5 Speaker 1-15.jpg

AR5 Speaker 30456-13.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Dashiell said:

I guess the next step it to remove the mids and tweeters.

Your cabs look good. Unless you are refinishing there is no need to remove the mids if they operate.  Same with the tweeters unless you are replacing with Q1Rs or having yours rebuilt. Be careful removing either. The old caulk is very clingy and impatience can lead to damaged flanges or worse. AR5 mids are scarce and not repairable.

Adams

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2 minutes ago, Aadams said:

Your cabs look good. Unless you are refinishing there is no need remove the mids if they operate.  Same with the tweeters unless you are replacing with Q1Rs or having yours rebuilt. Be careful removing either. The old caulk is very clingy and impatience can lead to damaged flanges.

Adams

That's good to know Adams, thanks. I hadn't hooked up the speakers to try test anything since the woofer surrounds were so shot. Is there an easy way to test the mids and tweeters without hooking the woofer back up and connecting the speaker to an amp? 

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Quickest way without the woofers.

1. Make sure your woofer +/- wire ends are not touching in the box. Put some black tap over them JIC

2. connect your speaker wires to the  1 and 2 posts

3. Turn on the amp at zero volume and turn up just until you can hear something.  The mid and tweeter should both operate through the pots if the crossover components have continuity, which is the most probable outcome. 

You may need to turn the pot knobs several times depending on corrosion. 

Adams

 

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38 minutes ago, Dashiell said:

The pots had some dead spots but I got sound from both sets of drivers. The highs seemed a little quiet but I was thinking about checking out the pots first. Or is it better to check out the crossover at this point? 

Cheers,
Dashiell

I don't know what you are calling highs.  The tweeters in these models don't operate below 5khz so they will never be loud even when operating properly.  Your  next big payoff will be cleaning the pots or replacing with lpads and resistors.  I would choose lpads. 

The crossovers may be ok. Those Compulytics are probably still good which means the small paper cap on the tweeter is the only one to replace as a matter of course. 

Your tweeters will be an issue in the end but you can decide about that later after they are working.

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10 hours ago, Aadams said:

I don't know what you are calling highs.  The tweeters in these models don't operate below 5khz so they will never be loud even when operating properly.  Your  next big payoff will be cleaning the pots or replacing with lpads and resistors.  I would choose lpads. 

The crossovers may be ok. Those Compulytics are probably still good which means the small paper cap on the tweeter is the only one to replace as a matter of course. 

Your tweeters will be an issue in the end but you can decide about that later after they are working.

Thanks Adams, my apologies for any confusion.I guess I was just referring to the sound coming out while fiddling with the 'Hi' pot. 

I'll get started on getting the pots out this evening. 

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