Series 24 speakers recap

[Harshman]

I just picked these speakers up yesterday. Opened em up to see what Im working with. It doesnt seem to match anyone elses post on these speakers. They have screw terminals.  Looks like 2 8.2 uF caps inline with yellow wire, and the big red dual 2uF cap. Should I replace the dual with a 4uF cap and then get two 8.2uF caps to go inline after the yellow wire? Im not brilliant at this stuff just started dabbling in it. Any and all help is appreciated. Please and Thank You.

[Harshman]

Figured it out, thread closed. The two 8.2uF caps someones else must have used as a replacement for the dual 2uf original cap while leaving it half wired in still. That was confusing me more than it should have. 

[JKent]

Well, just to make things more confusing there were 3 different versions of the 24 speaker. Do a google search. IIRC one had a double 2uF wired in parallel to make a 4uF but another version had a 15uF and an 8uF. Don't quote me on that but maybe do a little research. Good luck with them.

-Kent

[Peter Engel]

Just replaced the red dual 2uF caps that were wired in parallel (for 4 uF) in series with the tweeter. These are OLD wax units whose value has wandered a lot and now with huge dissipation factor. I used a couple of Southern Electronics 4.4uF metalized polypropylene units. It's interesting to note that the DC resistance of the tweeters is about 3.8 ohms. This would correspond to an impedance of around or just over 4 ohms. The 4 uF cap as a crossover would be about 10kHz in this case. Or a simple way of reducing the output to match the woofer while compensating for the lower total radiated power of the tweeter at higher frequencies.

If you have a model 24 speaker that went with the record player the crossover might have been different. Henry (Kloss) might well have done that to improve the overall sound of the system.