Stephen M

Thank you for the information Frank. Both this possibility and those mentioned in other posts suggest I would need to remove the dust cap. I have no experience with this - is there a technique you can recommend? Does the test I did connecting signal leads to the terminals and then to the tinsel wire lead itself rule this out? The foam on the inoperative wooder is in very good condition, so it most likely has been refoamed. In your opinion, how do these compare, when used in this particular speaker/crossover combination, to the HiVi Q1R 1-1/8" Textile Dome Tweeter mentioned by IARybody previously?

Thanks Roy. I've never worked on a woofer before so I'll take my time before checking this out. Thanks for the suggestions, this has saved me a lot of looking around.

I've tested it with my main power amp (Anthem MCA 20, see pic below for specs). There is a very faint signal, distorted but at least it's there. I connected the leads to both the terminal tabs and the leads running directly to the cone, and the result was the same. I think I can now discount dry solder in the terminal block. I've reinstalled the other woofer since testing yesterday, but from memory it was also testing at 2.6 ohms

Yes, tried this and there's no sound.

Thanks Adams and David, There are no rubbing noises when moving the cone. There is variation in the resistance, between 2.6 and 2.4 ohm over around 10s. Stephen

Hi, I've just bought a pair of AR3a-improved speakers, and was wondering if I could ask some questions please? The main issue is that one of the woofers is not working. I have tested with my multimeter and get a reading around 2.6 ohms. The diaphragm moves in and out when I press it, so there doesn't seem to be an issue there. As a test I swapped in the other woofer, which works, so there isn't an issue with the crossover. Here is a picture of the faulty woofer: This is different to the woofer from the other enclosure, which works. Here is the good woofer: I have taken pictures of the midrange drivers as well: The tweeters are not original. There is a 2 ohm resistor on the positive terminal lead. Here is the tweeter label: And finally, the crossover: I'm not at all familiar with these speakers, and was wondering if anybody could offer advice as to whether it would be worthwhile replacing the tweeters and getting the woofer repaired? If the woofer is not able to be fixed a replacement would obviously be needed... Any advice would be very much appreciated. I'm in Australia, so access to local shops might be difficult. Best Regards Stephen