VSAT88

Wow @r_laskithanks a million ! I just thought to look back here and see if I overlooked an e mail or minder that there was a reply and there was one. A very thorough one indeed ! Onece again, thank you kindly. Regards, Jim.

I have look around and read a lot but do not seem to find any thread that suggests a place to buy one of the front panel switches for the AR-9. Anyone know where i might source one ? New or used would be great. Thank you, Jim.

https://www.barkeepersfriend.com/products/soft-cleanser/ No affiliation. Yes, it works, no doubt about it. And yes, I know this is a very old thread.

The problem is almost certainly the voice coil wire in the tweeter. I have had this, well a very similar problem with one of my A-25's. I have also had this problem with a few Klipsch speaker diaphragms as well as the Polk audio SL 2000 tweeter. I am not exactly sure how to relay the fix to you though. It involves taking the tweeter apart and finding the broken wire and soldering a small jumper across the broken voice coil wire or simply a tiny bit of solder. It requires very strong magnification (for me anyhow) to see where it is broken or finding the cold solder joint on the terminal wire that the voice coil attaches to and re heating it to make the connection good again. This does not always work and can ruin the bad tweeter, get my drift... Maybe you fix it, maybe you totally destroy it. What you did was the best approach. Replace the tweeter. Keep in mind that a cold solder joint on the crossover board can cause crazy stuff like this. When I check a speaker in its resting position with a meter I am measuring DCR or DC resistance. The speaker receives an AC power from the amplifier as it has to move in and out. When it moves in and out that is when this can happen making this hard to troubleshoot. My two cents worth anyhow. Oh to edit this one more thing. Speakers do not like DC power. It causes them to sit still and gets the voice coil very hot eventually burning the coil. be careful with the battery check thing.

I love them. They look great ! Awesome job.

Check that. I figured it out ( I think ) at the second post that he was referring to the actual bag it comes in. Due to the corrosive quality of the original "rock wool" I read about anyway wanted to change it but that is really the only reason. I really thank all of you for your suggestions and support.

Oh and Roy, utility bag ? Big black contractor size like for yard work or white kitchen garbage bag size or military duffel bag size ?

Yep, I am in the US, Phenix City Alabama and thanks for the midrange by the way.

Wanted to know how much insulation, fiberglass I would need use in the AR-3 If I decided not to go back with the Rockwool. For that matter I have brand new Rockwool. Is it the same material as the old ? Should I use that, weighed up the same instead ? Thanks, Jim.

Those look like awesome speakers. Hard to find a manual I would think. Did you have specific questions about them or are you just looking for a manual to read more ?

How far out in the room are they ? Pic of listening space ?

Where is the OP ?

@daque13 the foam on those woofers are not any standard size. Those speakers are made in Denmark best I recall, in Europe anyhow. This is where I source ALL of my euro speaker surrounds and such. Very nice folks. Reasonable prices. Not Affiliated . https://audiofriends.eu/

Sorry I did not see this until now. Seems as if you have a good bit of knowledge of Snell. If I were you and I decided to mess around with a Snell network I would replace every single capacitor you see with identical parts. If it is an electro 12uF at 5% go back with an electro at exactly the same value. If its a poly go back with the exact same cap, exactly the same. Resistors, if they are good I would not touch them. Inductors the same. Do not change the inductors. I would go so far as to try and find the same exact manufacturer of the parts I replaced but that is probably me being a bit paranoid. Snell put these speakers together with great care exactly matching a master set of the same speakers. They even counted in slight woofer and tweeter variations so, very important to re match those parts. As far as the pot goes just clean it with Deoxit brand cleaner/lubricant. I would not change the tweeter, oh no, no, no ! Your highs will almost defiantly clean up with just cleaning the pot.

Just to be clear because I dont want to screw everything up this is my original schematic. Both speakers were wired like this when I took them apart and the serial numbers concur. I had read that I could use the later model AR3 mids as long as I added a 6uF and another 0.4 mH inductor to the mid circuit. That was what I was going to do until I discovered I had one 4 ohm and one 8 ohm (the AR5 mid).

I have no .06 mH coil in my crossovers. I need another 4 ohm midrange though right ?

Well you got me thinking Roy. I bought these two mids from two separate places. I checked the looks and the sound on both when I got em but.... I did not check DCR. I have one 4 ohm here and one 8 ohm. Not gonna work. I started thinking about these year mids some being 4 ohm and others 8. Darn ! I gotta go looking again I guess. Its terrible around here ! Ha Ha. I will get these things back together.......One Day. Thank you for all your help again Roy.

Think I got it right then. Using a combo of electros adding up to 30uF for the mid circuit and just the 6 up to the tweeter. Also adding the 2nd 0.4 mH across the mid. Those mids are right for my speakers except for the fact that they are not the original ones made in 1965 correct ?

Want to be certain before I build the crossover and install the new parts. I have the 1965 AR3 speakers verified by parts in the speakers as well as serial numbers. My mids are bad so I bought these. I should use this schematic. Adding a 6uf Capacitor and another 0.4 mH inductor. Is this correct ? I sure hope so ! Thanks all.

Hello and long time no see. I have a set of AR-4x speakers hanging around the shop here. One tweeter was bad so I ordered another from the bay. When it arrived it would not work. Took it out and notice that my DVOM reads the speaker as good if I slightly place my finger tips on the cone and push down. I get no reading with it released. Anyone attempted a repair ? Thanks and thanks again. Jim.

An 11 year old thread...Has anyone heard from "Guest jones" ? Does anyone know how to contact him. Do we have stuff here about Snell speakers that I am missing ? Thanks, Jim. Guys/Gals forget about the above. I think I found what I needed....

Check that. I thought I had found the answer in another thread but it was not as specific as you were. Thanks, I appreciate the reply. I had seen one on ePay for like 80.00 this AM so if anyone is looking...

Also, would the AR 5 midrange be the same well usable in the AR 3 ? From what I read they are both 1 1/2 inch and look the same facing the front anyhow.

Really late to this conversation but worth the post. I also have a set of 3's and at least one of the mids has a slipped magnet. Sent it to Roy (thanks Roy) and he helped me with a number of things. One of my mids is the original deep set round three bolt type and the other is the shallow but huge round magnet type. I am guessing there was work done in the past on these speakers because of that. I still have not decided what I am going to do as far as what type to put in but I do know this their are mids out there with slipped magnets that cannot be repaired so I will not consider buying a set of the originals. I am going for the AR 3 or later mids with the crossover change if and when I decide to do this. I appreciate all you guys for helping as you do here on site.

I know this thread is from the stone age but I just gotta stop in and say I love this place. Reading here is a blast. Dyna A25's And Dyna ST 70 here.