DavidR
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Posts posted by DavidR
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You can get Lacquer Thinner at Home Depot.
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Good investment Frank ?
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15 hours ago, Stimpy said:
Maybe it's exhibiting high DC offset?
Tweeters are protected by the capacitor as a non-polar cap will not pass DC. It holds/blocks it. Woofers are more likely to be damaged by DC current as they have no cap in series.
It would be nice to see a pic or tell us what cap was used. It could shed some light.
In the meantime has the OP taken a resistance measurement of the voice coil ?
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You may be able to find replacements on eBay.
I'm betting you would want to get a tweeter that doesn't require a modification to the cabinet.
Dimensions or a picture of the hole would be a great help.
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Look like new. Nice.
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Thanks for the post Larry. P.E. have 2 sizes. I need to measure which are closest.
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-heavy-duty-speaker-grill-guides-12-pair--260-367
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-small-speaker-grill-guides-12-pair--260-368
I'm thinking the first, the heavy duty, is the best choice.
I think my 9s are early as they have wooden frames for the grille material and the reverse pegs. The serial numbers are not very visible any longer and only part can be seen.
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I don't know much about the Classic series but I think they were designed by Ken Kantor. Beautiful wood cabinets.
According Aphenos.net they retailed for $2400/pair.
Condition and area being sold in may affect price.
Pictures showing their condition may help those who know this series.
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57 minutes ago, Stimpy said:
Harry, and some guy in Batavia Ohio. They have all of the big AR's. I wish.
Yeah, Animal37 on eBay, Geez ! I think they're related.
Lots show up in California, Texas and Florida.
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55 minutes ago, DavidR said:
Well, now you have me thinking about it. I wasn't going to because I figured I'd break most of them while trying to remove them. However, I have a bunch of the pegs from several AR94 harvesting. The second reason is I don't have any of the plastic tubes they put into the cabinet to receive the head of the peg.
I'm hoping to find a much better pair of 9s for keeping in the collection. Hard to find around here despite being where they were made. Harry398 finds them all ?
Guess my memory is getting fuzzy. The AR94 pegs are the wrong size AND wrong style.
I will have to buy some of the P.E. ones because I have some broken pegs. @ar_pro Thanks for making me aware of those. 3 different styles available.
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37 minutes ago, wallacelaren said:
I don't want to "bogart" DavidR discussion with my ID challenge . Is there another thread I can latch onto,.guys? Thks...
Create your own thread in the 'Other Speakers' forum located down near the bottom of the Home page.
Would you like me to start it for you?
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16 hours ago, ar_pro said:
I always preferred the socket portion of the peg assembly for the speaker, and the male portion for the grille panels - it seemed to have a sleeker appearance with the front grille removed.
Parts Express made - probably still makes - exact replacements that fit very well with a little glue for permanence.
I've seen them both ways in the literature, so I guess either method would be authentic.
Well, now you have me thinking about it. I wasn't going to because I figured I'd break most of them while trying to remove them. However, I have a bunch of the pegs from several AR94 harvesting. The second reason is I don't have any of the plastic tubes they put into the cabinet to receive the head of the peg.
I'm hoping to find a much better pair of 9s for keeping in the collection. Hard to find around here despite being where they were made. Harry398 finds them all ?
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Closer to Klipsch but I don't think they are those either.
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Thanks for the tip Pete.
I have some pony clamps and they work well. I also use probes/picks that do a good job removing debris.
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5 minutes ago, ar_pro said:
Are you going to retain the orientation of the grille pegs, or flip them around?
Leave them be.
It will make the sanding more difficult, but ................
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Yes, Glenn can work magic. I'll try my best. The damage doesn't show that much being on the bottom. The only veneer I have is from a Bose 901_II cabinet. It's too dark and the grain is slightly different so I just might fill with wood filler and sand smooth and then paint that part black. I'll be happy just getting the cabs sealed and looking decent. I'm actually looking for another pair that has plastic frames for the grille material and in much better shape.
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I have finally started the rebuild of the AR9's I picked up along with the 10Pi speakers. I had three non AR speakers that I wanted to get out of the way first. With some sage advice from Glenn (GD70) I tackled the worst cabinet first. The guy I bought them from must have used them outdoors on damp ground as they have damaged/swollen mdf (especially one). I found what appeared to be a dried up earthworm inside by the bottom xover board.
I first lifted the bottom xover board and coated the entire bottom and sides up to the woofers with z-poxy resin and then the bottom and bottom plate. Now I'm applying, bit by bit, epoxy based wood filler to damaged mdf shallow areas. Lots of work. Glenn was right about the resin being very difficult to sand. I hate sanding.
I have clamps ready once I'm at the point to apply resin to the bottom/sides in hopes of bringing in the warp-age some.
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Nothing to be sorry about. One tweeter is original (large ring) the other is an AR replacement (small ring). My 9s are very early with the wood frame for the grille material.
The previous owner lived in a 19th century farm house in mid CT. I'm positive he had them outdoors on damp ground as I am dealing with the issue now. They should be good when I'm done but not perfect. I'm not a miracle worker like GD70.
I think the tweeters in my 10Pi sound fabulous. Especially very high frequencies/notes.
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1 hour ago, RoyC said:
Practical experience is more informative than conjecture, and DavidR has had a subjectively favorable result with it in the AR-9.
In my AR10Pi not my 9's.
Just started doing cabinet work on the 9's.
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On 6/4/2018 at 11:21 AM, seventy1 said:
If I do another, I'll find a way to dilute the cement and apply it with a small brush for a smoother more uniform coating.
The typical solvent for rubber cement is naphtha. Some use hexane (or maybe heptane) but that is unusual due to it having a very low flash point. Naphtha is available at Home Depot and other places that sell paint.
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14 hours ago, brianw said:
crossed my mind why not upgrade, Dayton Audio, Scanspeak, Seas, they all offer some amazing dome tweets that have extended range to 25k or 40k and UMR units that are cleaner and smoother, and why not tinker with improving if at all possible.
So what if they extend out to 25 and 40kHz. I bet at 50 something you can't her above 15kHz if that high. I'm more than 10 years beyond you and I top out at 14kHz. More than that there just isn't much music above 15kHz anyway. And I'm with RoyC on 2 points: Midwest has a great drop in replacement and good luck with re-engineering the 9 for a new and different tweeter.
I suspect someone will be along soon who has repeated, successful experience in rebuilding/restoring the 9-series tweeter #200029.
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Those readings are correct and good.
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I have woofer #200027 in my AR9s and they measure 4.8 ohms DCR
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They have a nice big roll on the surrounds. Hard to tell about the dust cap. The type isn't too important IMO. Anything close to original will be fine. I think the originals were just paper.
AR9s, bought new in 1980
in For sale / Wanted
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Nice !
The hiss could be one of several things but I don't think its the tweeter but it could be.
AR speakers are getting top dollar now days. Your's look to be in very nice condition.
They could fetch $2000 or maybe more.