dxho
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Posts posted by dxho
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Looks like it ran from at least '74 through '78, based on buyers guides. The
CT-38 was apparently a one-year model ('78).CT-38 Two-Way Speaker System
Two-way speaker system with two 8-1/4" woofers and two 2-1/2" tweeters;
min. input 10 W rms; max. input 75 W/ch rms; 4-ohm imp.; hand oiled oak
veneer accent panels, wrap-around cloth panels, and removable smoked
glass top; 41" H x 11" W x 11" D $250.00 -
Good to know these pots aren't indestructible. Yours is the first field report of
which I'm aware. -
There are 2 x 2uf caps lashed together. Three are connected to make the 6uf,
and one is run separately. I replaced the oil caps in my pair; the sound did not
noticeably improve. But that would only affect the tweeters, and these don't go
that high in the best of circumstances.The pots on these are unique to this model, and apparently do not corrode. At
any rate, I'd test the caps and pots before arbitrarily replacing them. This might
be one of the few vintage systems that legitimately doesn't need upgrading.Kent is right about the possible use of surround sealer. These are capable of
prodigious bass. -
I'll add that it's probably worth the effort to set the ARs in the bookshelf and gauge
performance... -
The bigger furniture stores and new car dealer parts departments typically have
massive amounts of cardboard to handle and often are fine with scavenging. They
usually have the biggest boxes. -
The high-end KLH tweeters from a certain time period look the same, but
there are two variations, apparently with different voicing:
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On 1/10/2020 at 8:53 AM, JKent said:
That’s the oil filled capacitor and unless dhxo advises differently you probably want to keep them.
I think the boxes you mentioned are the wax covered capacitors found in later models and those should always be replaced
Kent
Usual advice is to keep the originals. I tested that advice and found new caps
did not change the sound.On 1/10/2020 at 9:50 AM, Popsicle AR2 said:I understand!!! I apologize for having you on both of my AR2 threads....I'm new to this forum!! I do have the "Restoring the AR3a" pages, and I'm using them as a resource as well. I'm so appreciative of this page and for everyone being so helpful here! These AR2 were my step-father's who has recently passed away and I fondly remember sitting in our den with him when I was young listening to these. I want to bring them back as they were then as best I can and could not even conceive of doing it without y'alls help here. Thank you!!!
You are certainly welcome. This exact model was my gateway drug to this website and
all things AR, so I'm happy to enable others ? -
Those are indeed original AR-2 pots.
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4 hours ago, Popsicle AR2 said:
…...you probably have oil filled capacitors that are still good.....
I was expecting oil filled caps too, but instead I found a metal box mounted up on its side with six soldered connections, and not oil filled box as I've seen in many of the pictures here. What's up with that? I cannot find any date stamp anywhere inside either.
Does it look like this?
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I think it's quite an accomplishment! Thank you for detailing the process. You might be the first
person, to my knowledge, who did so. I think a couple of reasons (and probably others, no doubt)
for no response: there is one person, maybe two, who are now offering repair services here, and
there's finally a reasonably close-in-sound aftermarket replacement available. Nevertheless, I
may finally drag out the dead tweeters I've been hanging onto for several years and see if they can
be revived. -
They were made from ~'71-'76. Yours would appear to be early in that range.
What requires knowing their age?
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Production started apprx 3/58, so probably not too long after that.
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On 7/28/2019 at 3:20 PM, George P said:
why is that excel file.. a zip file?? is it 1995? even if it was 1995, it can't be more than 5 megs??
does anyone have an unzipped version they can post here? or link to?
I do not have winzip or any "unzip" apps. / programs.
thank you!
looking for info on elusive KLH model 31
thank you!
Here's a listing of the early KLH products I pulled together. The one at the top of this thread
has a lot of mistakes. -
Looks like they were sold from 1989-91
Features treated paper woofer and liquid-cooled tweeter; direct-coupled
woofer; dual-density baffle; frameless grille; acoustic-suspension enclosure.
Walnut or black-ash woodgrain vinyl finish. Power handling 10-60 W;
frequency response 65-25,000 Hz, -3 dB; sensitivity 90 dB; impedance 8
ohms. 14 x 7-1/2 x 7-3/8 in; 9 lb. 4 oz $289/pr -
Earliest instance of which I'm aware is the KLH Model Four tweet, ~1958.
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appears to be some activity at audiokarma.org
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Sorry, thought you were confined to AC current. Looks like you already have a solution.
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Is it worth considering LEDs with some sort of diode arrangement? Lots more light
for the watts... -
Yes, very nice signs.
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I've seen Sixes in the 70xxx serial range with glued in tweeters, so this example
is a bit confusing. But I'll add it to the list :-) -
13 hours ago, ra.ra said:
Looks like you are leaning towards new L-pads, but I'll throw this out anyway. I have no experience trying this, but in order to try to salvage the disk by rotating (or replacing) it, one would need to drill out the rivet completely and re-install with a new fastener such as a tiny screw and nut. Sounds like a lot of fussy work, but if the wipers are in good shape, it might be possible to salvage the original pots.
these work nicely: https://www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Antique-Brass-Plated-Brass-Base-Center-Hole-Round-Disc-14mm-1871C-U-299/401173375672?hash=item5d67cbeab8:g:WPQAAOSwPYZU9htH
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5 hours ago, MikeW said:
How would you recommend doing so? They don't just spin freely, or even with a solid push with a screwdriver.
Depends on your toolbox and attention span :-) I'd probably escalate tactics until I got it turned or broke it/
proved I couldn't turn it. Nothing to lose, really. -
Spin that center disc 90° on the mid pot, it might be usable. Position the corrosion
opposite the ends of the wire.
Advent 300 Receiver Preamp
in Other Speakers and Electronics
Posted
That 20 ft coax could be picking up some signal.
Here's way more information than you probably need, but the
coiled-coax balun might help.
http://ham-radio.com/k6sti/balun.htm