JKent Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Previously I wrote about recapping the Fives: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=2557#entry74180In those cases the speakers had the aluminum plate with point-to-point wiring. Plenty of room, even when installing huge Clarity Caps.Recently an AK member asked if I would recap his Fives and I said "sure". Only later did I think to ask if he had the pcb version but by then it was too late--I'd committed.The crossovers arrived in a box along with some new Carli and Surplus caps. Theoretically the wire-wound resistors should be fine but they are all 5w and I've seen burned ones in Model Fives and Twelves (same drivers, bigger box).So populating the board presented a challenge. Here are shots of the first one. Maybe the second will look a little neater. The new resistors are all Erse 10w that I had on hand. Mills would have been a bit smaller but they cost 10x what the Erse go for!I managed to get them all in place but one 15-ohm had to be positioned on top of another resistor. I made a little spacer out of foam board to allow "some" air circulation.The caps are all attached to the board and in some cases to each other with double-faced foam tape. RTV takes too long to cure and hot-melt glue can damage film caps.I measured all of the old PVC electrolytics and the new film caps. The new ones were all good but I thought 2.7uF as a replacement for the 3uF was not ideal so I added a 0.22uF that I had on hand. Measured values are in the table below.The switches were quite oxidized so I sprayed them with De-Oxit. There was some discussion of installing binding posts but I suggested keeping these original and using ring lugs on the speaker wire. Just as well--I think installing binding posts would have been a bit of a chore.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted May 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Here are photos of the second board. Measured values of the removed and new caps were similar to those in the table in Post #1.Below are photos of the bottom of the pcb, the pcb stripped of caps and resistors (one resistor has been replaced in photo) and some shots of the finished board from different angles.The lock nuts for the terminal posts on this pair were rusted so I replaced them with stainless steel #8-32 nuts and SS internal tooth lock washers.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlspeak Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Nice job and pics kent. Below are a set of before and after PCB 5's I did with Dayton caps and Mills resistors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted May 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Nice job and pics kent. Below are a set of before and after PCB 5's I did with Dayton caps and Mills resistors.Thanks Carl. I really like the Mills resistors but replacing all the resistors with Erse cost $3.50. Using Mills would have cost $42.50. This was an economical rebuild using Carli caps and Erse resistors. I'm betting the sound is as good as the higher-cost alternatives.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessearias Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Nice job! You are the man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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