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Guest Jotaeme

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Guest Jotaeme

Hello everybody:

My 3a's tweeters just stop sounding. I know from past experiences with AR5 that fusing can help. Besides using fuses to protect the new tweeters I'm about to buy, is there any X-over mod? For instance to mod X-over into higher order wouldn't let pass less mids to the tweeters? This can be done? and how?

Your advice would be much appreciated. Also I have one (only one) used AR-3a mid-range driver I would like to find a new home for, if you are interested, please e-mail me at josembenite@hotmail.com

Thank you very much

Jose

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Guest dogmeninreno

>Hello everybody:

>

>My 3a's tweeters just stop sounding. I know from past

>experiences with AR5 that fusing can help. Besides using fuses

>to protect the new tweeters I'm about to buy, is there any

>X-over mod? For instance to mod X-over into higher order

>wouldn't let pass less mids to the tweeters? This can be done?

>and how?

>

>Your advice would be much appreciated. Also I have one (only

>one) used AR-3a mid-range driver I would like to find a new

>home for, if you are interested, please e-mail me at

>josembenite@hotmail.com

>

>Thank you very much

>

>Jose

Jose

Have you measured the resistance of the defective (presumed) tweeters? Fusing is a little tricky and I wouldn't mess with the xover. There is a AR3a manual on this site that mentions fusing and also try a search of arsenal where several posts address this exact issue. What amp are you using and what type of music and volume do you like?? Dale

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Guest Jotaeme

>>Hello everybody:

>>

>>My 3a's tweeters just stop sounding. I know from past

>>experiences with AR5 that fusing can help. Besides using

>fuses

>>to protect the new tweeters I'm about to buy, is there any

>>X-over mod? For instance to mod X-over into higher order

>>wouldn't let pass less mids to the tweeters? This can be

>done?

>>and how?

>>

>>Your advice would be much appreciated. Also I have one (only

>>one) used AR-3a mid-range driver I would like to find a new

>>home for, if you are interested, please e-mail me at

>>josembenite@hotmail.com

>>

>>Thank you very much

>>

>>Jose

>Jose

>Have you measured the resistance of the defective (presumed)

>tweeters? Fusing is a little tricky and I wouldn't mess with

>the xover. There is a AR3a manual on this site that mentions

>fusing and also try a search of arsenal where several posts

>address this exact issue. What amp are you using and what type

>of music and volume do you like?? Dale

Hi Dale, thanks for your comment. Yes, I measured both tweeters VC at 0 ohm. My amp is a Musical Fidelity ARcr and my pre-amp is a new Adcom GFP 555-II (NOS, going out of bussines dealer) I listen to classical and jazz at med to low volume. Maybe the tweeters are just plain too old 'cause they're the original ones. I also alternate my ARs with a pair of ADS L-400 speakers connected on the same rig.

A friend of mine suggested replacing the tweeters with same efficiency Canton (German made) units rated at 80 watts and with an FS of 955 Hz. Would have to be adapted 'cause round front plate is smaller diam than AR's. Your opinion on this matter will be much appreciated.

I've read somewhere that AR3a's X-over being first order at 6 db/octave lets too much of mid-highs pass to tweeters and that is probably the reason why they burn.

Your suggestion of looking for arsenal's info on this theme seems pretty good. I can do that.

Again, thank you very much

PS Are you the same friend Dale who might be interested in my AR3a's mid-range? If so, e-m me, I'm shure we can cut a deal.

Regards and happy listenings

Jose

josembenite@hotmail.com

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  • 4 months later...

>>>Hello everybody:

>>>

>>>My 3a's tweeters just stop sounding. I know from past

>>>experiences with AR5 that fusing can help. Besides using

>>fuses

>>>to protect the new tweeters I'm about to buy, is there any

>>>X-over mod? For instance to mod X-over into higher order

>>>wouldn't let pass less mids to the tweeters? This can be

>>done?

>>>and how?

>>>

>>>Your advice would be much appreciated. Also I have one

>(only

>>>one) used AR-3a mid-range driver I would like to find a new

>>>home for, if you are interested, please e-mail me at

>>>josembenite@hotmail.com

>>>

>>>Thank you very much

>>>

>>>Jose

>>Jose

>>Have you measured the resistance of the defective (presumed)

>>tweeters? Fusing is a little tricky and I wouldn't mess with

>>the xover. There is a AR3a manual on this site that mentions

>>fusing and also try a search of arsenal where several posts

>>address this exact issue. What amp are you using and what

>type

>>of music and volume do you like?? Dale

>

>Hi Dale, thanks for your comment. Yes, I measured both

>tweeters VC at 0 ohm. My amp is a Musical Fidelity ARcr and my

>pre-amp is a new Adcom GFP 555-II (NOS, going out of bussines

>dealer) I listen to classical and jazz at med to low volume.

>Maybe the tweeters are just plain too old 'cause they're the

>original ones. I also alternate my ARs with a pair of ADS

>L-400 speakers connected on the same rig.

>

>A friend of mine suggested replacing the tweeters with same

>efficiency Canton (German made) units rated at 80 watts and

>with an FS of 955 Hz. Would have to be adapted 'cause round

>front plate is smaller diam than AR's. Your opinion on this

>matter will be much appreciated.

I would suggest checking out eBay for an original tweeter if you have double checked that your tweeter is not in the 2 - 3 ohm range. Use a digital test meter as an analog will barely register. At zero you have probably blown them. Install an inline fuseholder and use a 1 amp fast blow fuse. They original 8/10 amp Fusetrons are very expensive and difficult to find today.

>I've read somewhere that AR3a's X-over being first order at 6

>db/octave lets too much of mid-highs pass to tweeters and that

>is probably the reason why they burn.

The AR3a's can, unfused, handle more clean music than most speakers ever made, short term. See the fusing sheet elsewhere as to the time versus power rating when using Fusetron fuses. But then, we only want to listen to fine music in our home, not entertain the neighbours. This is assuming you are not running test signals or heavy rock which will surely fry the speakers, particularly the weakest link, the tweeter. Fuse with 1 amp and you will find a very reasonable volume level and keep spares. Fuses are avaiable everwhere at about $.25 each. Heath used 5 amp fast blow, I believe, in their AS-103 (AR3a kit)if my memory serves me right. Good luck with your choices. Vern

>Your suggestion of looking for arsenal's info on this theme

>seems pretty good. I can do that.

>

>Again, thank you very much

>

>PS Are you the same friend Dale who might be interested in my

>AR3a's mid-range? If so, e-m me, I'm shure we can cut a deal.

>

>Regards and happy listenings

>

>Jose

>

>josembenite@hotmail.com

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>>>>Hello everybody:

>>>>

>>>>My 3a's tweeters just stop sounding. I know from past

>>>>experiences with AR5 that fusing can help. Besides using

>>>fuses

>>>>to protect the new tweeters I'm about to buy, is there any

>>>>X-over mod? For instance to mod X-over into higher order

>>>>wouldn't let pass less mids to the tweeters? This can be

>>>done?

>>>>and how?

>>>>

>>>>Your advice would be much appreciated. Also I have one

>>(only

>>>>one) used AR-3a mid-range driver I would like to find a

>new

>>>>home for, if you are interested, please e-mail me at

>>>>josembenite@hotmail.com

>>>>

>>>>Thank you very much

>>>>

>>>>Jose

>>>Jose

>>>Have you measured the resistance of the defective

>(presumed)

>>>tweeters? Fusing is a little tricky and I wouldn't mess

>with

>>>the xover. There is a AR3a manual on this site that

>mentions

>>>fusing and also try a search of arsenal where several posts

>>>address this exact issue. What amp are you using and what

>>type

>>>of music and volume do you like?? Dale

>>

>>Hi Dale, thanks for your comment. Yes, I measured both

>>tweeters VC at 0 ohm. My amp is a Musical Fidelity ARcr and

>my

>>pre-amp is a new Adcom GFP 555-II (NOS, going out of

>bussines

>>dealer) I listen to classical and jazz at med to low volume.

>>Maybe the tweeters are just plain too old 'cause they're the

>>original ones. I also alternate my ARs with a pair of ADS

>>L-400 speakers connected on the same rig.

>>

>>A friend of mine suggested replacing the tweeters with same

>>efficiency Canton (German made) units rated at 80 watts and

>>with an FS of 955 Hz. Would have to be adapted 'cause round

>>front plate is smaller diam than AR's. Your opinion on this

>>matter will be much appreciated.

>

>I would suggest checking out eBay for an original tweeter if

>you have double checked that your tweeter is not in the 2 - 3

>ohm range. Use a digital test meter as an analog will barely

>register. At zero you have probably blown them. Install an

>inline fuseholder and use a 1 amp fast blow fuse. They

>original 8/10 amp Fusetrons are very expensive and difficult

>to find today.

>

>

>>I've read somewhere that AR3a's X-over being first order at

>6

>>db/octave lets too much of mid-highs pass to tweeters and

>that

>>is probably the reason why they burn.

>

>

>The AR3a's can, unfused, handle more clean music than most

>speakers ever made, short term. See the fusing sheet elsewhere

>as to the time versus power rating when using Fusetron fuses.

>But then, we only want to listen to fine music in our home,

>not entertain the neighbours. This is assuming you are not

>running test signals or heavy rock which will surely fry the

>speakers, particularly the weakest link, the tweeter. Fuse

>with 1 amp and you will find a very reasonable volume level

>and keep spares. Fuses are avaiable everwhere at about $.25

>each. Heath used 5 amp fast blow, I believe, in their AS-103

>(AR3a kit)if my memory serves me right. Good luck with your

>choices. Vern

>

>

>>Your suggestion of looking for arsenal's info on this theme

>>seems pretty good. I can do that.

>>

>>Again, thank you very much

>>

>>PS Are you the same friend Dale who might be interested in

>my

>>AR3a's mid-range? If so, e-m me, I'm shure we can cut a

>deal.

>>

>>Regards and happy listenings

>>

>>Jose

>>

>>josembenite@hotmail.com

>

Update 20040803 The Heath company used 3 amp (3AG-3) fast blow fuses. They used an o-ring to seal the screw in cap into the fuse holder. Heath was great at little details.

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