Guest doodlebug Posted December 13, 2003 Report Share Posted December 13, 2003 Hello to all - new member, here. Last weekend, I picked up a pair of AR-3 (original versions, no upgrades that I can see, plus recovered grills). Naturally, the pots were in sad shape but cleaning has helped out there. Here's my question:* all the drivers are working with no typical rattles, scratching that would indicate abuse over the last 40 years. So, why do these things have such bad mid-range suck-out? That is, there is so little mid-range output that the upper end of the woofers end up doing most of the work - providing a decidly nasal honk to all program material.I know that subsequent versions of the AR-3 were better because I remember working on them back in the 70s as a stereo tech while in college. I don't remember this version as being so bad. I suppose I'm not trusting my memory from those days (the sex, drugs and R&R problem). While I'd like to keep them original as much as possible, what do the experts here recommend to do with them to improve the sound for less than, say $50 total?Cheers,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted December 14, 2003 Report Share Posted December 14, 2003 >Hello to all - new member, here. >>Last weekend, I picked up a pair of AR-3 (original versions,>no upgrades that I can see, plus recovered grills). >Naturally, the pots were in sad shape but cleaning has helped>out there. Here's my question:>>* all the drivers are working with no typical rattles,>scratching that would indicate abuse over the last 40 years. >So, why do these things have such bad mid-range suck-out? >That is, there is so little mid-range output that the upper>end of the woofers end up doing most of the work - providing a>decidly nasal honk to all program material.>>I know that subsequent versions of the AR-3 were better>because I remember working on them back in the 70s as a stereo>tech while in college. I don't remember this version as being>so bad. I suppose I'm not trusting my memory from those days>(the sex, drugs and R&R problem). >>While I'd like to keep them original as much as possible, what>do the experts here recommend to do with them to improve the>sound for less than, say $50 total?>>Cheers,>>David David, I have had no problems such as you are having with the AR3. Midrange output has been fine on all the 3's I've restored. I assume that both are doing the same thing? I would first remove the mids and see if they are the correct part#. If the crossover has not been tampered with, You could have some bad capacitors. Are the pots original? Good luck, Dale in Reno..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysontom Posted December 14, 2003 Report Share Posted December 14, 2003 >>>So, why do these things have such bad mid-range suck-out? >>That is, there is so little mid-range output that the upper>>end of the woofers end up doing most of the work - providing>a>>decidly nasal honk to all program material.>>>>I know that subsequent versions of the AR-3 were better>>because I remember working on them back in the 70s as a>stereo>>tech while in college. I don't remember this version as>being>>>>Cheers,>>>>David >David, I have had no problems such as you are having with the>AR3. Midrange output has been fine on all the 3's I've>restored. I assume that both are doing the same thing? I would>first remove the mids and see if they are the correct part#.>If the crossover has not been tampered with, You could have>some bad capacitors. Are the pots original? Good luck, Dale in>Reno.....David,I agree with what Dale is saying. AR-3 midrange output -- if everything is normal -- should be quite adequate, but never quite as prominent as, for example, the AR-3a. There is a possibility that you are having crossover troubles, but I suspect that the midrange dome is defective. The dome may have "popped" out of the gap, which is not uncommon with the foam suspension in the AR-3 2-inch phenolic domes. The driver may have overheated at some point, also, and changed characteristics. You may want to inspect that driver for the dome separation first and second, measure the DC resistance of the driver. It should be around 2.0 to 3.2 ohms or so. Of course, the most likely culprit is a bad level control. It needs to have full range of output when rotating the control; moreover, the control should be either the original Aetna-Pollock 15-ohm level control or an exact 15-ohm replacement.This brings up another problem related to the AR-3: because of its design, it is prone to change rather dramatically with age, unless it has been kept in mint condition through the years. For example, since the woofer is crossed over at 1000 Hz., the woofer's surround must be supple, and the foam damping ring in the center must be in good condition to help absorb reflections up the cone. Also, many people attempt to restore the AR-3, but proper restoration of it is a daunting task, and many a botched job exists because of inexperience. I think it is twice as difficult to restore an AR-3 properly as an AR-3a or similar, newer AR speaker. Everything about the AR-3 requires great patience and care. So you should determine if someone has been inside the speaker -- always very obvious in an AR-3 because the grill will have sags or waves in it.In the end, the midrange driver should have more than adequate output if the speaker is working properly.--Tom Tyson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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