refinish

[Guest rickcee]

Hi I've never seen any comments on refinishing old 'oiled walnut' speakers . I've tried with o.k. but not great results. 1. Miniwax 'wood sheen rubbing oil ' left somewhat dark, streaky, uneven. second try - formbys 'tung oil, low gloss' three coats, result a shiny finish with some dull streaks, spots. to even out ? light buff with #600 wet paper, steel wool ? ? I'm afraid to sand the thin veneer much more. anyway rick

[Guest Barrydor]

I had great luck with Tung Oil right out of the can on my AR9 veneer that was quite dried out. In my case, it took two applications to do the trick.

After the first application, I waited an hour or so for the oil to soak in and then buffed. There were a few spots where the cabinet was still dry and dull. I repeated the process and gave a final rub with a soft terry towel. The veneer still looks like new a couple of years later.

If this process could restore cabinets as bad as mine were, I imagine it would work well for just about any condition. I think the trick is to use a thin oil (not a paste) and allow enough time for it to soak in evenly. A few applications may be necessary.

In the case of the '9 series, you may want to remove the woofers before treating the cabinets. Also, be sure not to get the oil on the black back panel or the acoustic blanket. I used painters tape around the blanket during the process.

I would definitely not recommend sanding the veneer as it is pretty thin to begin with.

Barry

[Guest]

You shouldn't have any trouble sanding the veneer on your speakers (I've refinished the AR 4, 3a, 1, and 9...start with #150 paper, and finish with #220. Try not to apply too much pressure (I'd hand-sand the veneer, using a sanding block), and it should be in fine condition to receive a new stain. I've had excellent results with Minwax Walnut, Special Walnut, and Oak finishes, blended to a color that replicates the original AR oiled walnut finish. To get away from the constant re-oiling necessary with the original finish, I've sealed the re-finish with sprayed polyurethane (matte finish), followed by fine steel wool and paper towel buffing - the result is resistant to moisture (wet glasses, potted plants, etc.), and looks as good as the original finish.

[Guest]

I use Formsby's Refinisher. Follow the directions and it will remove that tung oil you put on and even out that streakiness. It will also lighten up the color slightly because the refinisher penetrates deeply. Once you do the whole cabinet let dry for a day. Then mix a jar of 1 part glossy tung oil with 2 parts linseed oil and apply two coats - drying between coats. Finish top surface with a good paste wax to protect it from water stains.

I've done many classic walnut veneered cabinets with this technique and have had many satisfied customers.

Good luck.

Carl, The SpeakerDoctor