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planning Large Adent refurb


Guest ubiquitous

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Guest ubiquitous

Greetings forum from a new member. I have a pair of walnut Large Advents that I bought as a teenager (I had the very good sense to imitate a friend who really knew his audio). They are still working, but one tweeter dome got pushed in during a move (damn!) and I would like to return them to their former glory. I was thrilled to find this forum, and have read most of the posts. Some of you have installed the Layne Audio parts, and I am wondering how difficult the tweeter upgrade is. The Layne site suggests that cabinet modifications will be necessary for the larger magnets, and I have emailed to asked what is involved but have yet to hear back. Can someone who has done this fill me in?

Cheers,

Doug

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Guest russwollman

Modifying the cabinet to accept the new tweeter doesn't require much cutting at all. I forget just how I did mine, but if memory serves well, it might be done with only a wood rasp to enlarge the opening so that the larger magnet clears.

I went to the extra trouble to rout the baffle so the tweeter assembly would mount and fit slightly below the baffle surface. I did so because the dome of the new tweeter does protrude. In the case of my speakers (A4s) the dome would have been in contact with the grille cloth had I not routed the baffle.

This can be done freehanded with a router if you're steady, slow, and careful. Place the tweeter dome down and mark around the edges of the mounting plate. Then you can score the lines you've drawn with a sharp utility knife to make routing more precise and cleaner.

The main thing is not to hurry. Do things step by step and think them through. Test first. Always use sharp tools. Note also that your cabinets may differ from mine.

Need more advice? russwollman@yahoo.com

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Guest ubiquitous

>Modifying the cabinet to accept the new tweeter doesn't

>require much cutting at all. I forget just how I did mine, but

>if memory serves well, it might be done with only a wood rasp

>to enlarge the opening so that the larger magnet clears.

>

>I went to the extra trouble to rout the baffle so the tweeter

>assembly would mount and fit slightly below the baffle

>surface. I did so because the dome of the new tweeter does

>protrude. In the case of my speakers (A4s) the dome would have

>been in contact with the grille cloth had I not routed the

>baffle.

>

>This can be done freehanded with a router if you're steady,

>slow, and careful. Place the tweeter dome down and mark

>around the edges of the mounting plate. Then you can score the

>lines you've drawn with a sharp utility knife to make routing

>more precise and cleaner.

>

>The main thing is not to hurry. Do things step by step and

>think them through. Test first. Always use sharp tools. Note

>also that your cabinets may differ from mine.

>

>Need more advice? russwollman@yahoo.com

Thank you for the information - I was hoping the woodworking would be fairly minor. Did you also replace the capacitors, and was this also straightforward?

Cheers,

Doug

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Guest russwollman

Yes, Doug, I did replace the caps (as Steve at Layne advises) and it is easy. You'll need a light-duty soldering iron and some solder. I use a 12.5 watt iron, very inexpensive and lightweight.

I did fashion a heat sink, using a pair of small vise-grips ro grip the wire between the soldering iron and the cap so the cap doesn't get the heat. Just plan carefully or you'll wish you had three hands. Remember, you have to hold the iron with one hand, the solder with the other, and make sure the wires stay together.

The other thing I did, not necessary but nice, was to replace the old nut-type connectors with banana jacks so the connection is easy. Radio Shack should have banana jacks, and you'll need plugs for the wire ends. You can get them in red and black for easy pos & neg ID.

I did not alter the tweeter level control in any way and wired everything just as I found it.

I'm by no means a pro. I figure things out for myself but I ask when necessary. So if someone gives you better advice you should take it!

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Guest russwollman

One more thing, Doug. You''ll notice the original caps are glued to the little board with hot melt glue. You will want to glue the new ones, too, to prevent rattling. I think I used clear caulk or epoxy. I can't recall. Just enjoy doing it. You'll figure it all out.

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Guest ubiquitous

>One more thing, Doug. You''ll notice the original caps are

>glued to the little board with hot melt glue. You will want to

>glue the new ones, too, to prevent rattling. I think I used

>clear caulk or epoxy. I can't recall. Just enjoy doing it.

>You'll figure it all out.

Great. Thanks again!

Doug

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