KLH Model 6 parts help needed please

[Guest lambke2001]

Please excuse my ignorance but where can I get these (see below) and how do I know which one. (just so I know what I'm replacing- is it the small cardboard tube with the 3 wires?) Sorry to be uneducated on this matter, but I'm willing to learn.

Thanks.

#3. "RE: KLH Model 6 help needed"

In response to Reply # 0

... The woofers sound great but the tweeters are

>barely audible. It looks as if the tweeter may have been

>replaced in the past. It is square and black with a square

>magnet and base with no visible markings. There are extra

>screw holes that lead me to this. I tested it independitly and

>apears to work fine.

> My questions are: How can I tell if the tweeter is original

>or replacement and what could my problem be and how to fix it?

>Could the frequency switch be bad?

>Any help would be appreciated.

>

>Model# 102324

The tweeters appear to be authentic, original-style (second-generation) KLH Model Six tweeters. The problem, most likely, is "KLH Chronic-Capacitor Syndrome," an affliction that effects many (if not most of) the old KLH Fours, Sixes and perhaps other models. Check and replace the crossover capacitor, and you should be able to bring the speaker back to life if the tweeter has not been damaged.

--Tom

[Guest MarkAnderson]

I assume you're referring to the "double" 2x2uF(MDF) cap which is attached to + speaker terminal and two of the switch terminals. This can be replaced with two 2uF caps in "piggy-back" fashion. Two of the leads should be wired together to the + speaker terminal and the two "loose" leads should be wired to the switch as per original. Hope that makes sense. Also, there is a single 8uF (although I've heard reports of two 4uF caps wired in parallel) in-line with + tweeter lead. This should be replaced as well. While the purists may disagree, I like to replace the stock electolytics caps with good quality polypropylene caps (like Solens, for example) in this particular speaker (or any, really, using this tweeter). - Mark

[soundminded]

I used what I had around, three 2.7mf non polarized capacitors all wired in parallel and it worked just fine. Total cost was around a dollar. Be careful not to cut the wires too close to the tweeter or you will have a problem. The wires appear to go directly to the voice coil, there are no terminals of any kind on the tweeter itself, at least on the speaker I repaired. Be sure not to inadvertently reverse the polarity or it will not sound right. You can solder on additional lengths of wire if that makes it easier to work, it will not affect the sound. Just be sure to tape up all bare wires so that there are no shorts later on and don't let them get too close to the back of the woofer. The original tweeter has a large square magnet and a metal mesh grill over the front of it and all 4 corners have diagonal cuts across the corners. Failed capacitors is by far the most common reason these tweeters don't produce sound and are easy to replace....IF...they are not the earliest version epoxied into the front of the cabinet.

[Guest Eunomians]

Slighty OT, but I assume that the 6's that have screws around the tweeters and woofers are indeed the "later" non-glued versions. I am wondering because I just picked up a pair a couple of days ago. They work great, but I think that the 3-step switches don't seem to day anything.