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Mdel 32 crossover, fill, and woofer questions


Guest ziradog

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Guest ziradog

It looks like the crossover has died in one of my model 32's. I have the grill off, and I know I need to go in through the woofer's mounting hole to get to the crossover. Can anyone tell me the best/safest way to get the woofer out? Once I do, what sort of filling (if any) will I find, and is it loose or glued to the sides/back/top? Finally, since this is a two-way system with no level control, I expect a simple crossover (one coil & one cap?). Can anyone tell me the value of the capacitor and anything about the wiring inside?

Many thanks.

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Guest Ken Perkins

The crossover consists of a 4 uf cap in series with the tweeter and a 1 mH coil in series with the woofer. I can't remember the DCR of the woofer's coil but I'd suspect it's @ .3 or so ohms. There's no padding resistor. Mine have a very thin layer of fiberlgass held in place with a metal screen in front of the tweeter to lower its output to the woofer but it sounds fine with or without this pad.

The box is pretty much stuffed with pink fiberglass. You can remove the woofer by removing the screws and working a small screwdriver around the rim of the woofer and working it out of the recess.

I'd suggest keeping the woofer's coil, it's fine as is, and simply replacing the tweeter's cap with a 4 uf Dayton or Solen poly cap.

Make sure you reseal the drivers with new mortite rope or similiar, after cleaning off the old gasket. Also, you can spread a VERY thin layer or RTV silicone on the cloth surround of the woofer to restore the seal there as well. Make sure you use RTV silicone and not enamel bathtub caulk. The real silicone will dry very flexible and will no interfere with the movement of the cone if applied very thin.

I used this black gasket material (retains appearance) that can be bought at any autoparts dealer...

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....artnumber=22072

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest ziradog

Mine turned out to be a little different. The speakers were sealed with foam gaskets, not moretite or such. There was a 4-ohm resitor in line with the tweeter. The capacitor was still 4 uF, no markings on the coil that I could find. The connections were made with wire nuts. I suspect that mine are later & cheaper than yours. The caps fixed the problem. Sure sound good for what they are.

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