Newbie needs help with KLH restoration project!

[roypercy]

Hi all:

First let me say how happy I am to be here. I really look forward to reading through the archives and learning more about this vintage speaker obsession that's been developing (I guess it's my midlife crisis - cheaper than a sportscar - so far!).

I could really use some help. I just got a pair of cosmetically-challenged but otherwise intact KLH 6's. They're a late model, with woofers screwed in rather than epoxied, and relatively modern crossovers. The sound, especially the treble, is depressed in one speaker and I suspect the crossover caps.Now I've successfully replaced caps before, (Scott S-15s, KLH 32s, and EPI 100s) but those were relatively straightforward. I'm seeing some things that aren't familiar to me and I want to make sure I find appropriate equivalents.

1) Should I replace the resistors? They're marked, respectively,

3Ω 10% 7w and 7.5Ω 10% 7w. Looking in Parts Express I can find resistors with those values but only at 5w or 10w. Would the 10w be okay, or should I go for a lower wattage with resistors? Or just leave them alone?

2) There are two electrolytic caps I could see on a quick inspection. One is a basic 8uf job, nothing special. The other is smaller and pretty corroded; as far as I can make out, it's marked "Red 2x2 uf". It has two leads coming out of one end, one out the other. How can I deal with this?

3) Someone on Audiokarma suggested I try Dayton polypropylene caps. Does this sound like a good idea? In the past I've tended to use non-polarized electrolytics for the older speakers, assuming they were closer to the original spec.

Any suggestions, thoughts or ideas would be more than helpful.

Thanks a million!

Roy

[Guest jcmjrt]

I recapped a KLH Model 5 and was extremely happy with the results. For capacitors, I used Dayton polypro and bypassed the tweeter and mid caps with Dayton film and foil. The Daytons are fairly inexpensive but reasonable quality caps, however, that being said I would guess (haven't tried it) that any new caps would give you a welcome change in audio quality. Sorry that I don't have any info on the Model 6 specifically but maybe someone else will come along with that.

[Guest stevput]

Just replaced caps in my Model Fives. One of the caps was similar to the 2x2 uf cap that you found in your Sixes. (It read 2x4 uf). These are two caps housed together that can be run in parallel. Anyway, I bought two Dayton 4uf caps, (you would need 2 2uf caps) soldered the leads together on one end and connected them to the lug where the single wire went (in my case, the original was black). I soldered the other ends (in my case the original leads were red) to the lugs where the original ones had been soldered. This site library has great schematics for the Model Fives that helped visualize what I was doing. Most likely you've found schematics for your sixes. Hope you reply with outcome. I also have a pair of sixes that I'll probably have to work on someday. SteveP