AR15 Question

[Guest vanmeter]

I've been working on my first refoam and restore project, a pair of AR15s that were in decently bad shape when I got them. In addition to the foam, the crossovers were both detached from the cases.

I put the crossovers back with two screws, not wanting to glue or putty them in in case I ran into part trouble.

I finally was able to put everything back together this morning, and they seem a little bass shy and midrangey to me. I'm gathering that this case doesn't have to be absolutely air tight, but if so I'm wondering if my screws are a problem.

If not, I didn't replace the two bi-polar caps on the board - should I start there?

Thanks!

[Guest vanmeter]

I just wanted to follow up on my own post; the more I listen to these speakers they seem really upper-midrangey to me; again, should I start by replacing the capacitors, or is there anything else to consider here? This is my first set of ARs, and while they're apparently not any of the really, really desirable models, they sound really close to incredible to me, especially compared to the Tannoys I had. Any ideas? I'm also wondering if I was just so used to listening to the simple first order crossover in the Tannoys that now I'm actually hearing more accurately what's on the recording.

[dynaco_dan]

Hi there;

Whereas I have never seen or heard your model of AR speaker, there is a little I can maybe do to help you.

The enclosure needs to be tight, not as tight as absolutely sealed, just acoustically sealed.

The crossover plate, from your description, is screwed to the back of the enclosure, usually I see dozens of staples and glue, but again, I do not know your speaker.

If you can remove the plate again, check it for hole placement for at least 2 more, to allow at least 1 near each approximate corner edge.

You must not damage anything, such as rub the copper coil, when doing this.

I am avoiding suggesting that you glue it down, at this time, at least.

Use sufficient length screws, not to protrude out the back of the enclosure.

Place a bead of putty under the perimeter of the plate and fasten it to the back wall.

Now be certain the mid and/or tweeter are puttied or gasketed in and finally putty or gasket the woofer in.

Now the cabinet is relativly sealed for the acoustic supspension woofer and you can give this a modest trial run.

If everything is ok you can or not, remove the plate and glue it in, or leave it as is, for future service.

[Guest vanmeter]

The plate had come completely off on both, and I wound up drilling two screws on each speaker to hold them on as I didn't want to reglue.

However, when you say damge, my thumb slipped at one point and slighly - and I do mean slightly - bent one of the copper leads on one of the plates. It's still connected and all of that, but I thought I should mention it since I'm under the impression now they're a lot more sensitive than I thought.

I just used the gaskets that were under the speakers to begin with; one thing I did not do after refoaming was add any kind of caulk to the permieter of the basket (which you can see in the photo), and the new surrond didn't extend totally to the edge of the basket, so there are unused screw holes half exposed around the speaker. But I thought the gasked would take care of that.

Sorry for all the simpleton questions...this is my first foray into this sort of thing.

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/dc/user_files/2433.jpg

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