Drivers AR-3 & AR-3a - same?

[Guest jamesdemusjones]

Are the drivers in the AR-3 and the AR-3a the same? I need to replace a high and mid-range driver in an AR-3a and have an orphan AR-3. Can the drivers be moved from the AR-3 to the AR-3a with good results?

Jim

[joelongwood]

Hi Jim,

Unfortunately, the mid and high drivers are not the same. I don't know what the sonic results would be if you subbed them, but are you sure you need to do that? Have you determined if the drivers are indeed bad, and it's not just the dirty/corroded pots (level controls)? That corrosion seems to be the primary cause of people assuming the drivers are shot, when in fact the drivers are fine......it's those damned pots! Hope this helps.

Bob

[onplane]

Bob, as always has it nailed on both counts. Drivers are totally different and usually the pots are the problem.

Try the battery test to determine whether the drivers are working. Per Tom the test is:

A quick way to verify the condition of an AR-3 midrange or tweeter is to scrape the black paint from the 3-terminal tweeter terminal board on the front of the speaker; by holding a wire from one terminal of a 1.5-volt flashlight battery to the middle or common terminal, take the wire from the other terminal of the battery and lightly touch it to the other terminal going to the midrange driver. You should hear a distinct crackling sound from the driver if the driver voice coil is not open. Do not exceed 1.5 volts to make this test.

Regards,

Jerry