Guest aroostookme Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 One more question on the AR3A's.The speaker binding posts (I remember these were the same on the 2AXs also) are really hard to use and I am thinking of replacing mine.Can someone explain these three posts and comment on how to turn them into a regular two posts and what to do?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 >One more question on the AR3A's.>>The speaker binding posts (I remember these were the same on>the 2AXs also) are really hard to use and I am thinking of>replacing mine.>>Can someone explain these three posts and comment on how to>turn them into a regular two posts and what to do?>>Thanks.Yes, The old train terminals were and still are a hassle..Take a couple of ring terminals and install them on your speaker leads from the amp..Be SURE you use a good stakeon and it is correctly installed..Remove the center terminal on the speaker and reconnect the ring terminal where the factory mid jumpers to the tweeter.Do the same on the woofer terminal watching polarity is important...Dale in Reno, Nv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 >>One more question on the AR3A's.>>>>The speaker binding posts (I remember these were the same>on>>the 2AXs also) are really hard to use and I am thinking>of>>replacing mine.>>>>Can someone explain these three posts and comment on how>to>>turn them into a regular two posts and what to do?>>>>Thanks.>>Yes, The old train terminals were and still are a hassle..Take>a couple of ring terminals and install them on your speaker>leads from the amp..Be SURE you use a good stakeon and it is>correctly installed..Remove the center terminal on the speaker>and reconnect the ring terminal where the factory mid jumpers>to the tweeter.Do the same on the woofer terminal watching>polarity is important...Dale in Reno, NvHi there;My 2 1/2 cents worth, if you don't mind.First using quality ring connectors is an excellent solid connection, Dale.Use these as is, with the existing posts.James had his rear speaker photo with a solidly mounted fuseholder.He used quality connections and it shows, very conscienceous. Removing the third post would require removing the woofer, plugging that hole, and bridging an internal connection eliminating the possibility of the woofer only option.I don't think anyone changes speaker connections enough to alter all this, plus perhaps adding a duplex connector, which is convenient, yes.A short 6" extention with banana plugs and series fuseholder may be an option.Just my thoughts before altering a classic speaker cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve F Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 My older cousin bought 3a's in 1970 and devised his own low-tech but foolproof way around those recalcitrant triple post terminals:He soldered washers of the appropriate size onto the ends of his speaker wire. He'd then simply slip the washer over the 3a's posts, replace and tighten down the knurled knobs, and presto! Never had a dropped or squeezed out wire ever again.Of course, this won't satisfy those of you who ascribe particular sonic characteristics to certain wires or connectors. It's merely something that worked perfectly and I hadn't seen it mentioned here before.Steve F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundminded Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 >Of course, this won't satisfy those of you who ascribe>particular sonic characteristics to certain wires or>connectors. It's merely something that worked perfectly and I>hadn't seen it mentioned here before.>>Steve F.I wish I could hear one tenth as much as some audiophiles think they can. As for their precious wires, if they were half as good as they claim they are, you could put them on yourself and they'd cure cancer.:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted April 5, 2006 Report Share Posted April 5, 2006 >My older cousin bought 3a's in 1970 and devised his own>low-tech but foolproof way around those recalcitrant triple>post terminals:>>He soldered washers of the appropriate size onto the ends of>his speaker wire. He'd then simply slip the washer over the>3a's posts, replace and tighten down the knurled knobs, and>presto! Never had a dropped or squeezed out wire ever again.>>Of course, this won't satisfy those of you who ascribe>particular sonic characteristics to certain wires or>connectors. It's merely something that worked perfectly and I>hadn't seen it mentioned here before.>>Steve F.Hi Steve;An excellent suggestion as an alternative connection.I would maybe add a copper, bronze or brass internal lock washer.I was going to try out an idea I had a few years ago.The standard of spacings of banana jacks is 3/4", which, I also believe is the, British Electrical Code standard spacing, for their electrical wall outlets.Anyways, I was thinking of buying some threaded brass spacers, or standoffs, with the same thread size as AR speaker posts.Drill out one end deep enough to accommodate a banana plug and add a small lock washer to hold it on tightly.I know there used to be at least one manufacturer of these years ago. Actually, Vancouver, is not a very friendly kit builder city, other than Radio Shack, most good sources have gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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