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The problem of finding the Bussman #4423, which was recommended by AR for years, has been solved. A company called Carlton-Bates (866-600-6040)sells the Bussman #4515(no soldering needed) fuseholder for $4-$5 and it is just like the 4423 but does not require soldering.I ordered 6 on Tuesday and received them yesterday (Friday)by UPS. The 4423 is also available, but has to be back ordered. The fuses (FNM-2)are available at Loew's for $3.57. So for a small outlay you can protect your investment.

Has anyone blown their speakers using the fuses recommended by AR or does the protection actually work?--Just curious

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>I meant 4421 instead of 4423--my ignorance. Sorry Vern I

>didn't see your previous post, but I am not sure why the

>soldered connection would be preferred over the screw type. If

>soldering is your thing then you could solder over the screw.

>As for me screws will be sufficient.

Hi Terry;

A good, sound solder connection is always a preferred method over a mechnical connection.

If the #4421 solder open type fuse block isn't available, then the next best one available.

There again, we were never given an option, from AR or Advent as to which fuse block we wanted.

A good, sound mechanical connection, with the correct fuse is worth much much more, than no fuse.

It is nice to see someone else values his speakers and uses fuses.

The Cooper/Bussmann FNM or Littlefuse FLM fuses of the correct, original, recommended sizes will not provide 100% protection to the speaker system today or back then.

It will probably give you some peace of mind, just like a seat belt or a parachute.

The tweeters are still the most prone to go with these fuses.

The mid range drivers less so, but are still vulnerable.

If you have not done so, go to the crownaudio.com site, and read their discussion on speaker power handling and fusing.

Perhaps one of our more technical members, might jump to the challenge, and discover what fast blow fuses we really need, if we individually fused our drivers.

Unfortunately this experiment will cost a few speaker driver deaths, maybe.

My interpretation is, to fuse the woofers with a slow blow type fuse, and the uppers with their own separate fast blow fuses.

Remember, that with the recommended FNM/FLM fuses, that was over 25 years ago, and we should maybe be downsizing slightly, if we can.

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