AR fusing booklet

[dynaco_dan]

Hi there

I visited www.arsound.com's Korean web site and saved a fusing manual (700036 8/77 CVC) for AR speakers, from AR/Teledyne .

It's an interesting site to visit.

What I saw as being particularly interesting was on the front page of this booklet, "During playback of a good recording and when the amplifier is not "clipping", for example, the AR-7 with the recommended FNM-6/10 fuse can be fed peaks greater than 1500 watts and which have a duration of only 1/10second".

One can only imagine the AR-3A's or LST's power capabilities.

By chance they have a writer named Mark as well. lol

[Guest dogmeninreno]

Vern, do you happen to have a link to this website? I cannot seem to find it with the url you posted..Thanks, Dale

[ninohernes]

I used to fuse my AR-3a's with the recommended fuse, but I was blowing it constantly. I no longer fuse my speakers, and I have never had any tweeter problems at all. The fuse would generally blow during heavy bass passages, not high end passages. The woofer uses much more current than the tweeters. I use my AR-3a's as studio monitors. I power them with very clean power. I feel that clipping is more of a threat to AR speakers than over power.

[dynaco_dan]

>I used to fuse my AR-3a's with the recommended fuse, but I

>was blowing it constantly. I no longer fuse my speakers, and I

>have never had any tweeter problems at all. The fuse would

>generally blow during heavy bass passages, not high end

>passages. The woofer uses much more current than the tweeters.

>I use my AR-3a's as studio monitors. I power them with very

>clean power. I feel that clipping is more of a threat to AR

>speakers than over power.

Hi there;

Ready for another rattle session?

Dale the path is; http://www.arsound.com

I believe, it is a Korean web site.

I am unable to translate the entrance page at the site.

Not to worry though, several obvious graphics on the left will lead you to speakers and manuals.

The fusing manual was obviously scanned, the magazine reviews appear to be re-typed with a few unimportant spelling errors.

Whom ever did the typing did a fine job irregardless.

There is a listing of the various speaker models.

I was not able to access everything at that site, but it is nice to visit.

You'll see why I said they have a Mark writer too, when you read a particular article.

A for their effort in what they have done.

Regarding your blowing AR recommended fuse, were you referring to the FNM-1 1/4 slow blow amp?

Under misc. recently, I wrote a rattle on a KEF-107 speaker review.

The review was Audio, I believe, around 1987 +/-?, I do have the review hidden in my messy museum.

The reviewer was commenting that now, he had enough clean power to not have power restrictions in speaker testing.

The reviewer did not name the manufacturer of this custom amp but it was 5,000 watts per channel.

He was still clipping in the upper tweeter range.

I also read, recently at the Crown web-site, which I also wrote in another topic recently, power to the woofer is similar to the slow blow fuse characteristics.

Their suggestion was to fuse the woofer separately from the upper speakers.

The upper speakers would require a fast blow fuse.

I was an idiot when I was much younger, I used to use FNM 1 1/4 amp slow blow fuses, which I kept buying from AR directly.

I also blew many fuses, as I was listening at far greater sound levels, than the speakers were ever meant to play at.

This was using my AR amplifier.

I remember a listening session in my home a long time ago, I had AR-LST's, AR amp, AR turntable with Stanton 681EE cartridge and A stylus.

We had Simon and Garfunkle's Cecelia and Lucky Man by ? playing full blast, we never blew the 2 amp LST fuses but my neighbours sure got an ear full.

I was lucky that I made the choice to use 1 amp fast blow fuses early on before I had any driver damage, never mind my ears.

One amp fast fuses, are all the fuses I ever use now, for my smaller speakers up to AR-LST's.

I soldered an inline fusholder at the rear of the speaker and keep lots of spares on hand.

They are cheap that's for sure.

Heathkit's AS-103 (AR-3A equiv) used a fast blow 3 amp fuse, but that was over 25 years ago as well.

There is now several choices one can make now, from my oversafe 1 amp fast blow, up to the old AR approved, 3 amp fast blow, this is only for the AR-3A or equivalent.

Remembering the age of the drivers, I always think that a nickel fuse is far better than a blown driver.

A AR-3A tweeter on ebay can be $25 - $50.00 each plus, s&h, time and labour to re & re, and remember not every reader is able to do the repairs themselves.

The Buss Fusetron fuses are difficult to find now, and I believe they run around the $5.00 each mark.

The Buss 4421 fuse bases are difficult, if not impossible to find, at least here in Vancouver.

There may still be a few of these treasures in old time elctronic repair shops, gathering dust.

I'm working on an idea about substitute FNM fuse bases, I will add to this topic if my idea works out.

Have a great evening.

Have you contacted Minh, or left your feelings regarding Minh?