Elialan

I think the tolerance is the point.... in mine I have several ohm between the solder tabs and the corresponding brass rivets inside the pots. However I'll go with the settings in the reference article!

I m a poor student, sorry! I've read now about the pots positioning! :) is the reference position equal between the AR3 and AR3A?

Yes, I think i'll go to design a cover which i'll fix in the center of the shaft in the rear of the rehostat. It will be designed as a disk whose diameter is exactly the external diameter of the rehostat itself, to protect the contact. The aetna pollak which I have measures 16 ohms. Since they are linear pot, if the dot corresponds to the middle of the resistance value, i think that I have no problem.

I've read something about L-PADS in classical ARs. However, since the pair that I am restoring one of the second gen of AR3, I prefer to use rehostats to have a more historically correct result. Obviously L PADS are more reliables, if one day I'm going to restore a pair of AR3A for example, I will use them. Just a curiosity. Ive seen some ebay adverts for classical AR rehostats. The seller claim that LPADS in classical AR usually last for at least 6 months and then they melt. Is that true? If we put the parallel resistor to the load, i cannot see the problem to use them.

The pots that i think were good, shows great corrosion, so they are useless. I've found four 16 ohm, 50 watt vintage rosenthal (yes, the one of fine ceramics!!!) N.O.S. for cheap (50$ for the whole bunch). Do you think that they are good enough?

Oh yes, for sure! So also the tweeters of the early AR3 have the same issue? Is there a way to save them from the dump?

In my opinion this might not be true, since in this tweeter the diaphragm and the voice coil were fixed directly on the magnet surface, as we can see from the metal spot near the dome, so the tweeter have only a structural fail which can be repaired by gluing the plastic frame with a two component glue without replace the tweeter

Very good for the screws, now here in Italy will be a very hard challenge to find them! The midrange magnet structure is noot the rounded one, but they are the squared one, which according to the article, are correct for the period. Regarding the L-Pad, they are quite oxidated and expecially one cursor has rusted. I have some spare L-Pad coming from a couple of AR 2AX speakers. Seems that they are equivalent, is that so? My idea is to replace only the internal cursors and the ceramic part which houses the resistance and the contacts.

Hi everyone! I'm Elia from Italy, I'm new to this forum and I'm just working on a pair of magnificient AR3, which have been appeared in Italy in the early '60 from a NATO base. The speakers have been forgotten for a very long time and the boxes have some dents and need a restorations, but the loudspeakers are all original and in working condition. After almost 55 years, the capacitors need to be replaced. And here is the question. My speakers have a serial number C22312, so according from the reference article here in classic speaker pages, they have a crossover topology 'C', where the midrange and tweeter are filtered only by a capacitor, without any inductor. However, looking at the crossover the stamped date seems to be JUN 11 1963, so the crossover topology must be the'B'. Any advice on this incongruence? And then another doubt..... One woofer bolt is missing. What is the thread of the woofers bolts? Elia