carlbarry
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Posts posted by carlbarry
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On 6/12/2020 at 10:54 PM, Aadams said:
CarlBarry
Use this thread as a guide
Thanks. But the thread doesn't address my issues.
I think I will make a clear plastic template from the hole in the AR 3A with the tweeter removed, mark where the screw holes are in the cabinet, and then place it on the new tweeter and see if I can drill out the existing holes.
Funny thing about the gasket that came with the tweeter: the holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the tweeter, but the notch for the terminals don't line up with the terminals.
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On 3/30/2020 at 8:03 PM, JKent said:
Pretty much drop-in. You just put a 0.05mH coil on the back of the tweeter.
I just received my HiVi Q1R.
The holes on it don't match up with the holes in the cabinet. Nor are they big enough for the screws.
Should I drill new holes, or try enlarging the existing holes? I don't think enlarging the holes will work, as the diameter of the mount is smaller than the original.
And another little catch: the coil's leads are very short, so I will have to solder on extensions to be able to mount on the rear. I thought I could mount it alongside the terminals, but I don't think it would then fit in the hole.
Thanks.
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2 hours ago, Jim Pearce said:
I would like to know what a good test record is for assessing my hearing please.
I was actually referring to those old "test your stereo system" LPs.
If you're registered with 23 and me, they have a hearing test.
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8 hours ago, JKent said:
Some pots can be rebuilt and some are too far gone. I used L-pads in my 4x's. It was my first restoration. If you want authentic pots the ones from Chris1this1 are worth a try. While you're in there be sure to replace the capacitor. You'll need one 20uF per speaker.
Thanks!
I'm not looking forward to it. It was tough enough working through the 12" hole of the 3As. Working through the relatively small hole of the 4x, yikes.
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I've replaced all of them in my 3As after unsuccessfully trying to rejuvenate them. But when they go in my rear channel 4Xs, I will surely give it a try.
Thanks.
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1 hour ago, JKent said:
Try here:
I'd phone or email to check availability.
Thanks. I had looked at Madi Sound, too. They want much more for shipping than Parts Express, and there is a notice that they don't know when they'll be able to ship. So either way, I probably have to wait for the Apocalypse. Until then I guess I'll just have to wear headphones.
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Thanks again!
I see he's improved his packaging since I purchased mine. Mine were just the L-pads and a photocopied instruction sheet, no wires, color directions, etc.
I'm just waiting for the speaker to be back in stock at Parts Express.
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OK, I found the box with my originals. It's from April 2007 (time flies when you're having fun; I would have sworn I replaced them about 5 years ago). Return address is for Larry Lagace.
The instructions for installing the new units says, "The VINTAGE-AR superior replacement level controls for all early year AR speakers utilize a different terminal layout than the original AR potentiometers . . ." No mention if L-pads.
My originals are the ceramic bottoms with metal tops and red posts.
Just as a side note, I have the AR-3As because I built a Heathkit AR-15 receiver, as that was rated the best receiver by Consumer Reports. We then bought the 3As at a place in Brooklyn called Stereo Warehouse for I believe $185 each, because again Consumer Reports rated them the best speakers. I'm pretty sure that was 1968 when I was in high school.
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7 hours ago, genek said:
Depends on how long ago. At one time, Larry was taking original pots apart and combining parts to reconstruct them to sell.
No, the ones I used were not like the originals. They looked like standard potentiometers.
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34 minutes ago, JKent said:
If you bought them from ebay seller Vintage-AR they're L-pads.
Gee, I'm positive I bought them on ebay, but it was a few years ago. I have to find the shipping box, where I saved the old pots.
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6 minutes ago, JKent said:
This is really Roy's mod and he has experimented quite a lot and refined his approach. The most recent thing I found from him said "I prefer the .05mh coil, 5uf cap, L-pads/no resistor, and like-polarity."
You said you replaced the pots. If they are original pots the tweeter/coil should be enough. If you used L-pads you might consider replacing the 6uF cap with a 5uF cap but really the 6uF should be fine. You can tweak the sound with tone controls (and maybe room placement but that's often not possible).
Of course, if you never replaced the capacitors you may want to consider that. And be sure to download the AR-3a restoration guide. http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/restoring_the_ar-3a/
Kent
Thanks for all the help.
I couldn't fix the original pots, so I replaced them with new pots that were advertised as direct replacements.
I downloaded the restoration guide quite a while ago, and it is fantastic.
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Aha! Thanks. I read something about a 3 uF polypropylene capacitor, and inverting the polarity. I haven't fully researched it. The speaker is out of stock until May.
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I checked the resistance on the leads of the tweeter, after de-soldering, of course. First problem was scraping the lacquer off the hair thin wires.
I checked with an ohm meter. Infinite resistance. So the voice coil is open?
Is the HiVi Q1R a drop in, or does it need a modification to the crossover?
Thanks.
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25 minutes ago, JKent said:
Don’t buy replacements. Have the originals rebuilt. Or go with HiVi. They can be front wired by drilling 2 little holes in the faceplate.
The HiVi option seems very good to me. I used to be able to hear 20 kHz on the test records, but not any more!
If that is the solution, I'll do it. Thanks.
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Thank you.
I'm the original owner, and both speakers were bought at the same time. Both are identical.
I see front wired replacements on ebay for around $88. The HiVi are much cheaper, if I'm looking at the correct replacement, only $25.48. But they have the back connections, not front like mine.
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I thought my front left beloved AR 3A sounded off. Turns out the tweeter is nor working. I replaced both pots a few years ago, so I doubted that was the problem.
I did the easiest thing first: checked if there is a voltage going to the tweeter. There is, hovering around 1 volt.
Can I safely assume the tweeter is shot and needs to be replaced?
Thanks.
AR 3A tweeter problem
in Acoustic Research
Posted
Aha, yes, the holes are enlarged. Thanks.
My father was a shop teacher, and always said, "Measure twice, cut once." In this case, my feeling was, "Ask people who have already done it, and drill once."