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About carlbarry

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  1. Aha, yes, the holes are enlarged. Thanks. My father was a shop teacher, and always said, "Measure twice, cut once." In this case, my feeling was, "Ask people who have already done it, and drill once."
  2. Thanks. But the thread doesn't address my issues. I think I will make a clear plastic template from the hole in the AR 3A with the tweeter removed, mark where the screw holes are in the cabinet, and then place it on the new tweeter and see if I can drill out the existing holes. Funny thing about the gasket that came with the tweeter: the holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the tweeter, but the notch for the terminals don't line up with the terminals.
  3. I just received my HiVi Q1R. The holes on it don't match up with the holes in the cabinet. Nor are they big enough for the screws. Should I drill new holes, or try enlarging the existing holes? I don't think enlarging the holes will work, as the diameter of the mount is smaller than the original. And another little catch: the coil's leads are very short, so I will have to solder on extensions to be able to mount on the rear. I thought I could mount it alongside the terminals, but I don't think it would then fit in the hole. Thanks.
  4. I was actually referring to those old "test your stereo system" LPs. If you're registered with 23 and me, they have a hearing test.
  5. Thanks! I'm not looking forward to it. It was tough enough working through the 12" hole of the 3As. Working through the relatively small hole of the 4x, yikes.
  6. I've replaced all of them in my 3As after unsuccessfully trying to rejuvenate them. But when they go in my rear channel 4Xs, I will surely give it a try. Thanks.
  7. Thanks. I had looked at Madi Sound, too. They want much more for shipping than Parts Express, and there is a notice that they don't know when they'll be able to ship. So either way, I probably have to wait for the Apocalypse. Until then I guess I'll just have to wear headphones.
  8. Thanks again! I see he's improved his packaging since I purchased mine. Mine were just the L-pads and a photocopied instruction sheet, no wires, color directions, etc. I'm just waiting for the speaker to be back in stock at Parts Express.
  9. OK, I found the box with my originals. It's from April 2007 (time flies when you're having fun; I would have sworn I replaced them about 5 years ago). Return address is for Larry Lagace. The instructions for installing the new units says, "The VINTAGE-AR superior replacement level controls for all early year AR speakers utilize a different terminal layout than the original AR potentiometers . . ." No mention if L-pads. My originals are the ceramic bottoms with metal tops and red posts. Just as a side note, I have the AR-3As because I built a Heathkit AR-15 receiver, as that was rated the best receiver by Consumer Reports. We then bought the 3As at a place in Brooklyn called Stereo Warehouse for I believe $185 each, because again Consumer Reports rated them the best speakers. I'm pretty sure that was 1968 when I was in high school.
  10. No, the ones I used were not like the originals. They looked like standard potentiometers.
  11. Gee, I'm positive I bought them on ebay, but it was a few years ago. I have to find the shipping box, where I saved the old pots.
  12. Thanks for all the help. I couldn't fix the original pots, so I replaced them with new pots that were advertised as direct replacements. I downloaded the restoration guide quite a while ago, and it is fantastic.
  13. Aha! Thanks. I read something about a 3 uF polypropylene capacitor, and inverting the polarity. I haven't fully researched it. The speaker is out of stock until May.
  14. I checked the resistance on the leads of the tweeter, after de-soldering, of course. First problem was scraping the lacquer off the hair thin wires. I checked with an ohm meter. Infinite resistance. So the voice coil is open? Is the HiVi Q1R a drop in, or does it need a modification to the crossover? Thanks.
  15. The HiVi option seems very good to me. I used to be able to hear 20 kHz on the test records, but not any more! If that is the solution, I'll do it. Thanks.
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