DON
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Posts posted by DON
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Thank you for your replies. I've had a chance to compare the 11s to another speaker that I liked very much and I've noticed some real differences. On one song what I thought was "electronic" noise purposely recorded that way was really very musical with individual instruments very clear on the ARs. The overall bass is more prominent but tight and not at all boomy. The highs and upper midrange are well dispersed and provide a wide stereo image. The ARs are not quite as open as the other speakers and the soundstage is not as deep front to back........but not lacking. I need to listen to many more recordings.
I'm already waist deep in speaker restoration and I run out of energy in the early afternoon so I won't be tackling another recap or refoam anytime soon. They sound good as they are. I don't see any sign of sealant behind the woofers so I may take one out to see what he used if anything. Are the 12" woofers 2xxxxx03-1 interchangeable with the -2s? One has a round magnet and one has a square magnet.
No suggestions on my multimeter?
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I've never owned a pair of 3a and probably never will unless I come across one of the "estate sale" wonders but I do have a pretty nice pair of AR11s that seem to be in good operational condition. I have some work to do on the cabinets but they should turn out really nice. They were refoamed by the previous owner but he used some adhesive other than what is usually used and it looks very sloppy. It's some type of thick rubbery substance but they are air tight. I'd like to refoam them correctly but I'm not sure I can get this adhesive off without damaging the woofer cones. They sounded very good for the short time I played them.
I'd like to know how the 11s sound compares with the 3a.
Another question totally unrelated to the title. My multimeters won't stabilize when I test for resistance or capacitance but act as if they're searching and can't find the right reading. Should the digital readout stop on one reading after a few seconds? Both meters act the same. Thanks Don.
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I bought my 2ax when I was stationed in Germany around 73-74. The audio club had 2ax, 3as and 5s. They all had the light colored grilles and the Base Exchange had the European style cabinets of the 2ax with a reddish brown cloth and my wife and I preferred the dark cloth. I foolishly sold those speakers in 96. I found an almost new empty pair of the European cabinets a while back but health problems delayed any restoration efforts until just recently.
I've tried to post photos but they're too large and I haven't figured out how to resize them in I-Photo yet
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Those cabinets are looking good.
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Refinishing the cabinets is the easiest part of restoring a vintage speaker as long as it has a wood veneer. I've seen examples of one persons work where he removed the vinyl and applied a wood veneer and the speakers were absolutely beautiful.
I haven't read this entire thread so I don't know if it's been mentioned but dents even serious dents can be lifted using a wet cloth and an iron. As long as the wood fibers have not been crushed the dent can be lifted. I've lifted dents that were 3/4" deep and you can't tell there was a dent. Takes time and several passes with the HOT iron and a WET cloth.
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Thanks for the comments Don,
I'm going to try tinting the BLO a bit. I have a few light spots I'd like to darken up on the 3a cab. I going to look more into the Mohawk products Monday to fix up the major ugly's on the 14 cabs.
My ProPlan bin is about 12 years old so I should get a few more years use out of it. LOL.
Thanks,Harry.
Harry I thin BLO about 50/50 with turpentine or mineral spirits. Mineral spirits is flammable and turpentine has an odor. The rifle stocks I restore are of course smaller than a speaker cabinet but I usually put on at least 3-4 coats. I need to find ssome of the epoxy paste to finish the corners of my 2ax and 5s.
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I think your cabinets are coming along nicely. BLO is almost the universal oil finish for vintage speakers that had an oil finish. My only caution is to thin it and go slow and allow it to dry completely before applying another coat. It will become gummy and pull up if not dried completely. You can tint the BLO with a small amt. of stain if you want a darker color. BLO won't damage the teak.
There is no need to apply any other finish over the BLO but it's not water proof........potted plants are a no no on the tops. Rubbing the oil in generates some heat and helps the oil penetrate the wood so the finish is in the wood not just on it.
I'm glad to see someone else working in their kitchen
My ProPlan container finally dried out, cracked and fell apart after about 15years. -
I could use some of those products to fill the cracks and scratches in my face
Some of the methods used to remove white spots look promising. The epoxy paste should work on the ubiquitous corner dents on most speakers that have been shipped to me.
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Thanks Klaus,
So how many are applying boiled linseed oil every 6 months to thier oiled cabs.
Having refinished/restored several WW2 rifle stocks I can say absolutely..... thin BLO with mineral spirits or turpentine before applying. When applied straight it can take days to dry and even a thinned coat should be allowed to dry overnight. I live in an area that has low humidity and in high humidity areas longer drying periods may be needed. If you recoat before the BLO is dried a couple of times it will start to become gummy and roll up with your cloth. I apply it with my hand and rub in throughly although some say that's not healthy.
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Hi, I am new to this forum and have a situation where you man be able to shine some light. I dont know much about audio connections or equipment for that matter but have done some research on-line and hope you can help.
I recently purchased two Advent Baby Advent II Speakers. On the back is a red and black input holes. Next I purchased a Sherwood Record Player (PF1170R), the audio output line is red, white and a ground looks small horse shoe. The problem I am having is connecting the record play with the speakers. I dont know if i need to cut the red white wires and splice to the speakers or if it is a new plug-in i need. Any help would be appreciated. If you need photos please let me know. Thanks.
I'm not familiar with your Sherwood record player but if it's just a record player/turntable you will need either a receiver (combination of radio and amplifier) or an integrated amplifier (combination of a pre amplifier and amplifier) with a phono input. The audio output of a record player needs to be amplified before it is strong enough to drive a speaker and produce sound. When you get a receiver/amplifier the red and white wires will go into the "phono" input. The places where the wires go are usually color coded red and white.
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I too will try not to be rude here but it is bad form to accuse someone of being a "flipper" when nothing could be further from the truth. I have owned these speakers since the day they were new. If your estimate (which I do appreciate) is accurate that means I've owned and used them for 38 years or thereabouts. Hardly a "flipper" by anyone's definition, I'd say. Unfortunately, I'm having to move into a much smaller home and won't have room for them in view of the other equipment I'll be taking with me. It occurred to me that since folks here are enthusiasts they might enjoy owning these speakers themselves or be able to guide me as I try to find them a good home at a fair price. So, as I mentioned earlier, if anyone knows of any resources other than eBay or craigslist for accomplishing this goal, I'd appreciate their letting me know. Again, many thanks in advance for any help that anyone may be able to offer here...
List them in classified section of this forum.
My ProPlan container finally dried out, cracked and fell apart after about 15years.
AR11 VS AR3a
in Acoustic Research
Posted
Thanks Kent I'll keep Bill in mind if I run into trouble when I try to do them.
I'd post photos but resizing them is giving me fits.