Analogman
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Posts posted by Analogman
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Hello to all
I still have this AR badge if anyone is interested. Will be leaving Kalifornia in roughly a month so if you think you might want it, now's the time
From Post#1:
I have a PRISTINE ALL BRASS genuine AR-2ax logo - the ALL brass type (not the shit ones with the steel backing that always separates) with graphics in sunken relief that I would love see go to a new home
I mean it's flawless, paint and metal, but unfortunately I only have ONE
$40 if you know anyone who can use itNOT my photo, I took it off the web (I don't own a camera), but this is the style and as I said, the all brass execution:
That's firm - any less and I'll just keep it in my collectionCash only, no paypal and you pay the postage - I've sold badges like this before (on trust) and can give a reference if you feel uncomfortable about it
I just do not and will never use preypal - full stop
Thanks
Craig
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1 hour ago, Aadams said:
Click on your avatar then in the upper right click on "see their activity"
Hi
I have clicked everything I can click, I don't get/have ""see their activity" anywhere
Only think I got related to the word "activity" is all the "activity" on the site
Craig
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Hello
Been gone a while, got a new look I see
Please tell me how to access my old posts, not threads but posts
I've clicked on everything I can see
Thank you
Craig
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City (location) would be helpful in making a decision to make an offer
California's a big place
Craig
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Still have the AR badge
Thank you
Craig
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AR Badge still available
Thank you
Craig
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Don't know why ANYONE is buying or fooling with the rape job, over priced chinese CTS repro crap.......................
.................when, for THE MOMENT, just about every incarnation of that CTS masterpiece is for sale on ePay in quantities ranging from singles to assembly line cases and ALL New Old Stock, AND every example I've researched was being offered by sellers with monster positive feedback(s)
If the repros are what you want you can buy them off epay for about half of what the friendly guys at simply speakers etc et al. are gouging you for - the L25 JBL chinese repros too
The chinese L25 repro can be had for around $25, SS is gouging at $79.95! Ridiculous - I've had some interesting correspondence with 'em on the fact that they're just re-selling the same junk off the net to which they make no denial (did say they had plans in the works to adjust their asking downwards, instead it's actually gone up)
Same driver, same factory same everything as the $25 unit - they even use the same STOCK PHOTOS sans SS paper sticker on the magnet
Guys, please don't support this crap until there is no other choice.............................and even then.......: - (
Craig
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Klipsch badge sold
All brass AR-2ax badge still available
Craig
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On 3/2/2018 at 6:45 AM, JKent said:
Craig
Got me curious. Apparently CSW is out of business and the manuals are unobtainium. Even if they were still around they may not be of much help. A couple of years ago I phoned them with a question about my "Ambiance by Henry Kloss" bookshelf speakers. The rep told me there was no such thing--Ambiance speakers are in-ceiling models. I ended up sending them photos of my speakers!
Found an interesting thread here: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cambridge-soundworks-basscube12-plate-amp-wrecked.699899/ No schematic but some ideas at least.
Good luck.
Kent
PS: You "may" find a suitable replacement here: http://www.apexjr.com/amps.html I retrofitted one of his amps to my VMPS sub years ago with good results. If you have questions about dimensions etc. Steve is pretty helpful.
Hi Kent,
I just need a schematic (with voltages) don't really care about a manual proper
These plate amps are fairly simple, like PC power supplies and the fix is usually a .10 cent zener or a cap or resistor or two that's fried
I have a working unit that was given to me me (nice sub actually) that works but after a while goes into shut down
Like I mentioned, I'll probably find the issues once I open it up (just haven't has a chance this week, it's been a disaster AND I woke up the other day with a fairly serious lingual hernia to deal with, n top of all my other health crap) by just giving it a good visual, but still, I ALWAYS prefer trouble shooting with a proper schematic
And yeah, like I said in my first post, product support from Cambridge has ALWAYS sucked, even back when they were in all the malls
(don't ask me how I know)
I'm going to repair this sub- not worth it to me investing in just buying another cheaply built chines plate amp from Parts Express - they're basically all the same platform
(again, like PC power supplies) Once the specific issue is identified I will also address all the other issues with upgrade parts (again, building as cheaply as possible like they do)
Most of these amps are only good for a few trouble free years anyway (again, same as PC power supplies) Even Lexicon uses the same cheap crap you'll find in an HP tower PC! I've fixed more than a few of their $6000 dollar processor/pre-amps and all that was in them was cheap as dirt "Artesyn" switching PSs, just with a "proprietary" part number (and the Lexicon price tag of course!)
I've probably already got all the parts on hand already here at the house and Fry's has a very good selection of zeners f I need them (which seems to be one of the common failure items on these due to underrating (read building as cheap as possible) all of their boards
Thanks for your input as always
Best regards,
Craig
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In need of a SCHEMATIC and or a SERVICE MANUAL for an old Cambridge Soundworks "BASSCUBE 12S"
Any help or direction to a source would be greatly appreciated
A schematic for just the plate amp would take care of the total ticket!
I know this amp is totally repairable and I'm going to start with the basics that plague them all but I'd like a schematic to assist with Voltage values and transistor types
I can do this flying visual but a schematic would be an ENORMOUS time saver!
Thanks to all
Craig
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The old, original AR inc. badges have been claimed and given to a fellow forum member who does restoration work, so I only have the two pristine badges still for sale
The all brass SINGLE AR-2ax and the bastard child Klipsch
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You do beautiful work Kent
You have also graciously helped me MANY MANY times, knowingly or not
I have known you were well loved and active here since (my) day one, but had no idea just how much!
And NOW, I see you are a Davis fan (as am I)
Wish you were here on the left coast and I'd share with you some nice stuff I have (probably nothing you haven't heard, but some GORGEOUS pressings)
Although soon, as in well before Summer, I hope to be out of this nightmare and back home in North Carolina, Lord willing
Thank you Kent, sincerely, and best regards
Craigk
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I have a PRISTINE ALL BRASS genuine AR-2ax logo - the ALL brass type (not the shit ones with the steel backing that always separates) with graphics in sunken relief that I would love see go to a new home
I mean it's flawless, paint and metal, but unfortunately I only have ONE
$40 if you know anyone who can use itNOT my photo, I took it off the web (I don't own a camera), but this is the style and as I said, the all brass execution:
That's firm - any less and I'll just keep it in my collection-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For what it's worth - got a SINGLE copper KLIPSCH badge, the smooth copper early to mid 80's type tha followed through well into the 1990s (not that funky horizontal pattern they used for a while, just smooth copper with all graphics done in sunken relief and black paint) Just the name KLIPSCH (with registered trademark symbol) and the "PWK" pie - 3" x 1/2" - a genuine Klipsch badge
I'll take $25 for this one - only mentioning it here just in case there's any closet Klipch fans lurking about. These are going for INSANE money on the auction toilet*If anyone wants the AR badge I've got a couple of rough old style square with black paint AR incs I'll throw in for free - they're rough, but good enough for place holders until better comes along
Cash only, no paypal and you pay the postage - I've sold badges like this before (on trust) and can give a reference if you feel uncomfortable about it
I just do not and will never use preypal - full stop
Thanks
Craig
* the old style "ARinc." pair has been given away to a fellow member - see below
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I have had more than a few "I can tell a definite difference/improvement/wow, that's VERY nice" experiences with caps (like the improved inner detail and clarity you get with replacing old film types with new as well as by-passing) but have never ever had a "jaw dropping" one (by changing any cap that was working properly in the first place)
and I have installed, changed and serviced a LOT of capacitors
(electrolytic maintenance jobs and just plain open circuit or MASSIVE drifts off value notwithstanding)
Real, definite and significant (sometimes) improvements, but again, never a "jaw dropping" one
I think those only occur between the pages of sterephool and some folks' ears : - )
Craig
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On 12/15/2012 at 4:16 PM, Horswispr said:
The cardboard tube with the green wires sticking out is not the cap per se, rather the cap "assembly"
It contains a nondescript mylar cap and some sand for damping/isolation
Then obviously hot wax is poured on top to seal it off
It is from the same supplier JBL used through the '70s in both "pro" and consumer models
Excellent quality build for a cap install execution, period, and especially for a speaker that fell in this price range
The mylars were of good quality for the time, but I have measured more than a few that have drifted significantly over the decades (or either they weren't that closely matched to begin with as far as tolerances go), so as always, either way, it doesn't hurt to change them out and I do so as standard practice whenever I encounter these - I would also suggest the purchase of a very basic cap tester, one good enough to at least let you know if, A - your values are close from cap to cap, and B - if you have a decent value match from cab to cab
Whenever I encounter this type I salvage the tube, wax and sand, stuff in the new poly with a .01uF film and foil by-pass and add the sand and re-seal with the wax
And by the way: JBL didn't use the very nice spring steel clamp to hold the tube like on your Marantzs - they just hot glued theirs to the masonite boards
Craig
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On 12/17/2012 at 1:15 PM, JKent said:
Just one caution: Our resident engineer/speaker guru John O'Hanlon has warned against using hot melt glue on film caps--the excessive heat can damage the caps. Better to use cable ties, RTV or Goop.
Hello Kent and All!
Long time no speak!
I realize this is an ancient thread but felt the need to say that if hot glue is your method of choice then by all means have at it. It will in NO WAY harm a modern polypropylene or film and foil type cap in ANY way
Arnie Nudell, back in the day, and Klipsch, starting around the Kg4 era, sure fell in love with it and used/use it by the barrel.
It won't hurt a thing
Most of us SOLDER them into the circuit, yes? Think about it
A lot of current Klipsch product and lower end JBL are still using it religiously to this day, as well as many others, too many in fact to mention
I personally don't, and wouldn't, use it but for other reasons, but damaging caps isn't one of them (and as Kent pointed out, there are "better" ways)
If you are apprehensive regarding what I am saying then take the time to simply review the tech sheet for any film type and put your mind at ease
Best to all
Craig
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Hi
Thank you
That's not what one sees when they are looking at their own page, that's what YOU see
I just now figured it out, and it is in the same location, but just a white rectangle with another rectangular symbol within, no wording
My fault, my oversight (or lack of sight) - I was going to the menu symbol way up top and was getting the word "activity", just not mine, must not have hovered over that little one obviously
You know, now that we are (have) abandoned/are abandoning English in favor of "universal" symbols, there should be legends at the bottom of all internet pages until those of us who still remember when public bathroom doors were marked "MEN" and "WOMEN" respectively finally all die off
Always wanted to learn another language before I died, but not like this (not griping about Classic Speaker Pages, just griping about what's going on the past 25 years)
That, and the ever growing use, by millennials and gen Zers, of acronyms, for EVERY damn thing
Like we're all supposed to know, the "I, me, mine" world
A trip to SFO ; - ) (San Francisco International Airport) today? fuhgeddaboudit
Don't know how I missed it, but thank you again
Sincerely
Craig