blanddawg625
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Posts posted by blanddawg625
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Thank you. I do have an owner's manual.
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Found the specs on the P2200.
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I used rope caulk from Simply Speakers on all four 10" woofers and on the 8" mid. I am beginning to think that the preamp is the culprit. I get good bass when I turn the LF tone control up a few clicks past flat. Maybe time to shop for a better pre. Preferably Yamaha, too.
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Sorry about the double post, but shouldn't the LMR be in phase with the woofers? This seems to make sense because this 8" driver does play the upper bass, does it not?
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3 hours ago, AR surround said:
While I understand that it isn't easy to move these speakers around, have you tried repositioning them? I once had my AR90's placed relative to my listening position that turned out to be a bass null which yielded unacceptable results.
I have them against a wall, with about 3' clear on either side and about 7' apart. Thought about playing them and putting my hands on them to make sure both are moving at same time and then check one of them against the LMR the same way. My understanding is that the woofers were wired in phase but the other 3 were done the opposite. So, the woofers should move at the same time with each other but should be different from the LMR.
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2 hours ago, DavidR said:
What are you driving them with (amp and pre) ?
Caps can affect the bass and in my case the LMR recap made a noticeable difference.
I am driving them with a restored Yamaha P2200 and Aiyima pre/DAC. The Aiyima is surprisingly quite and has a 2v output so the power is there as the amplifier is rated at 350 watts into 4ohms. I did recap these and replaced all but the 350uf on the lower board.
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Seems like there should be more bass on these. How much difference do the capacitors on the lower board affect this?
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On 7/15/2023 at 1:09 PM, DavidR said:
..... assuming I had a 'switch board' in my 90s .....
So they changed the way the switches are mounted at some point, because the pair I have has them on a board. The switches are on one side and the resistors are on the other.
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On 7/19/2023 at 12:17 PM, Aadams said:
The P2200 shows up as a product of the 1970s to 1980s. Not many members here will encourage you to use an amp that old unless it has been professionally rebuilt. There are many modern 4ohm capable amps with speaker protection circuitry but there will be zero additional AR90 woofers and LMRs.
That is why the amp has been totally upgraded and the speakers are fused.
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Got both ends, suggestions on in between.
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On 7/31/2022 at 1:59 PM, lARrybody said:
Maybe somebody can explain to me why the upper three drivers have poly fill stuffing, but the lower dual woofer and crossover area is empty.
It is because of the standing waves from the woofers which will resonate throughout the upper regions of the cabinet. The filling is there to stop this from happening.
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On 11/12/2019 at 1:16 PM, DavidR said:
They were sounding very dull. When I hooked one recapped 90 up to my son's system with a TSW610 on the other channel. I felt the 610's tweeter was better. The mids/UMR/LMR of the 90's has the most improvement. I moved both to my system last night and the tweeters seemed to open up some. However, I'm wondering if my tweeters have some drying ferro-fluid. I'm contemplating getting another pair of the Midwest tweeters. It's only a matter of time before the ferro-fluid is hard.
I ordered some 150 and 200uF Bennic NPE this morning.
The far lead of the 6uF is bitch to solder.
No it is not if you just move the switch board out of the way. This is done by cutting the front lead on the 4uf and removing the nuts from the 3 switches in back. Then it can be lifted slightly and moved, making it easy to reach both connections of the 6uf.
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I recently bought a pair of AR90s and found that all the woofers- 2 8" and all 4 10" have been resurrounded with rubber instead of foam. I have read that it is not so bad for the 8", but what about the 4 10" woofers? How will this effect the sound and is there a remedy for this. I have already noticed a lack of efficiency with them but what else will be different. Thoughts?
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On 1/13/2023 at 10:35 AM, Mr. Weather said:
Fortuntely, my foam inserts are intact. They seem perhaps *slightly* stiff, but are generally still foamy and intact. One has an indent on each side.
Inspection with a flashlight does confirm that the side veneer does cover the whole side, even the factory black. I can see the veneer grain texture under the black paint. So that's correct compared to yours. I like the idea of having the whole side as natural wood with no paint. That could be an option because it may be impossible to strip *only* the paint that was applied by a previous owner without removing the factor black around the woofers.
AR may have switched badges over the years. I found one photo showing "AR90" badges. Maybe they ran out of these and used generic "AR" badges on some units.
I have a roll of "speaker gasketing" tape, 3/8" wide by about 1/8" thick. I used it on my Goodman EE4410s after removing the factory black sealant/goo/tar that had turned hard and brittle. So that seems light the right thing for these ARs.
Where did you get this picture? This is a picture from a pair of AR90s that I am buying on Ebay right now.
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85/ch. is not nearly enough. I am currently running stacked NLA with a Yamaha P2200 with 425/ ch @4 ohms. There is alot to be said for headroom in any system.
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Hello, everyone. I currently have a pair of NLAs with New Advent/1s on top. And I have noticed all the talk of impedance dips. However, these dips are so quick(usually 1/100th or 1/10th of a second), that receivers or amps capable of handling 4 ohms are fine. The way to go is with a separate power amplifier if you really like it loud. Mine are run by a Crown PS200 which is an A+A/B+B class and is conservatively rated at 170 into 4 ohms. High current is what makes most separates safer at lower impedances.
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On 10/30/2021 at 4:05 PM, Alkaloid said:
Shawn make sure you shim the voice coils to make sure they are centered and not scraping. I will try to post a few pics. Also there is some fantastic rope caulking for the gasket when you put the woofers back in the cabinet. B2WT Mortite weather strip and caulking cord. Comes in a roll and 2 strips wide applied to the edge of the woofer is perfect. My pics are too large to attach. You can get this a Home Depot or Lowes, very cheap.
Here is a link to a video on Youtube all about capacitors. Shows you how to measure them to see if you need to replace yours.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4EUwTwZ110
I refurbished a pair of OLAs that like yours were in awesome shape cosmetically. I sent the woofers out to Rich So who is of ADS fame. He did the surrounds in butyl rubber.
They will be good to go now for another 50 years without rot. My pair had all the paper work intact on the backside along with the original warranty cards. I did the grill cover cloth as well. Good luck with your pair and enjoy!!🔊
Please don't shim the woofers. Rick Cobb sells surrounds with a test tone CD for centering. And changing the surround material will affect the sound.
AR90’s vs Paradigm Sound
in Acoustic Research
Posted
I have to agree totally with how well the AR90s sound being pushed with a professional amp. I push mine with a fully restored Yamaha P2200, with the big vu meters and 350 watts @ 4ohms. I believe the weak link has been a little Aiyima pre/DAC that is surprisingly quite, but I think lacking in soundstage and imaging. I am currently awaiting the delivery of a Classe SSP25. Everything I have read about the Classe' tells me that it is a superb 2 channel performer. Can't wait to find out.