Phxjohn
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Posts posted by Phxjohn
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I can't imagine running the mids full on with any of the models. My 3a's are missing the 25 ohm resistors but even still, I run the mids just a bit past 'off'. They are very powerful.
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Thank you both for your informative responses.
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Here is a review of the AR 2a's from 1960:
https://worldradiohistory.com/Archive-All-Audio/Archive-High-Fidelity/60s/High-Fidelity-1960-May.pdf
Page: 49
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On 6/4/2021 at 9:22 AM, DavidR said:
I have to agree. I prefer listening to my 91s a bit more than the 10Pi; but not a whole lot. I have to get or make some tilting stands for the 10pi and see if that makes a difference.
I was not familiar with the 58s or 91. Thank you !! Great info.
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I never use tone controls with any of my AR speakers. They sound fine with the bass and treble at 'flat' or defeated.
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I would replace it with a genuine AR woofer. Check eBay and Vintage AR on eBay. I had AR woofers reconed and they no longer produced deep bass. So unless you can find someone who is an expert, I would just replace it.
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I just purchased 6 pots for my 3a's and 6's. The 3a's have L-pads without the resistors(as far as I can tell as the volume is much too high just a hair from 'off'). I don't like the way that they sound. As far as L-pads being trouble free, I have a bad one already on one 3a.
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34 minutes ago, samberger0357 said:
FWIW I found the 2ax dull also. Mine were restored, but everytime I put them in the system, they just let me down compared to other speakers I was using at the time, such as the KLH Model Six and Five, and of course 3's and 3a's. And they were an early pair with the cloth surrounds. I really wanted to like them, but they just never did it for me.
I've never heard the 5's, but I've never seen anybody say anything bad about them.
I am interested in the 1st generation with the cloth surrounds and the orange dome tweeters like you had or have. Discounting the 2's that I had decades ago, the 2ax 1st generation would be my first cloth surround AR woofers. My 3a's will be getting rebuilt 3/4" domes so I am curious to have the orange dome tweeters of the early 2ax.
Do you think your 2ax orange domes were putting out a high enough volume ? How about the midrange/tweeter(the cone speaker) ?. Sometimes a depression in the midrange will make a speaker sound dull or remote even when the highs are all there. I appreciate the comments on the sound. I see quite a selection of early 2ax's out there but the cabinets tend to be beat.
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Does anyone prefer either the first or second generation 2ax to the 5 ? As popular as the 2ax's still are due to current availability due to their popularity when in production, there must be some opinions out there. I'm leaving the 3a's out of the discussion because I have a pair of those. Just for background, in the past, I have had AR 7's(new, my first AR's), 2's(given to me by a friend,) 6's(woofers reconed and essentially ruined by a speaker repair company as they no longer have any real bass) currently purchasing a pair of 6's with the original long throw woofers, just ordered pots and knobs, will get caps, already have grills with cloth and badges from Vintage AR. The experience that I am lacking is with the middle models the 2ax's and 5's. The 2's were much too dull sounding for me. I added(just placed on top) a metal horn midrange/tweeter with cap and L-pad to make them listenable. They were so dull that I don't think of them as even related to the 2ax although they are, of course.
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Thank you Aadams for a very informative answer. I'm familiar with the graphs, thank you for putting them all together in one place. I have always wondered about the lower output level of the tweeter especially on the 2ax. Do the level controls allow the tweeter level on the 2ax to be brought up to the level of the midrange ?
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I have read many threads here and on other sites comparing the AR 5 and AR 3a. I read the thread discussing whether there should have been a 12" AR 2ax.
I am curious to get opinions on how both the 1st and 2nd generation of the 2ax compares to the 5. I am familiar with the technical aspects of all 3. I am interested in comments about the sound of all 3. I purposely did not use the word 'versus'. All 3 are great speakers in absolute terms. If there is another thread that already compares the sounds of all 3, please list it.
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Great find !!
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None of the speakers for sale are mine. If this voids the rules of the forums, please delete. There are a number of AR speakers for sale at great prices at this time. I wish I had the money to at least buy the 3a's, 4x' s and 6's. Maybe someone on this site lives in the Phoenix area and finds this helpful:
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/d/electronics/search/ela?query=AR speakers
Update, I have 3a's, I am not interested in 4's, but the 6 is burning a hole in my pocket.
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I am glad that the woofers look fine because to rebuild the woofers is expensive. Kent T on here has the correct pots at great prices. I am going to get four for my AR 3a's as they were rebuilt with L-pads before I purchased them.
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I have a pair of original 6's. A previous owner abused them or had a mishap. The pots were not corroded, they were burned. The spiders on the woofers were also torn loose. That might be something to check for with the OP's woofers.
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I was so happy to learn the reason why I don't like the sound of my AR 3a's at all. One option for me would be to just add the resistors. But I cannot do the work. With an entire shoulder and humerus replaced, I can no longer even lift them. So they will be sent out for the work. The transportation and labor will be costly so I decided to have them made as original as possible. I want to hear the AR 3a's the way they sounded 50 years ago. To recap(actually the caps should be fine LOL): L-pads will be replaced with pots. the HiVi Q1R's will be replaced with Roy's or Chris' rebuilt tweeters.
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21 minutes ago, Jim Pearce said:
I was delighted to find that these are repairable even to the extent that Chris can 3D print missing parts of the flanges.
I have a pair with the older red domes, a pair with the Hi-Vi and two pair of the three quarter inch black domes.
'I have a pair with the older red domes, a pair with the Hi-Vi and two pair of the three quarter inch black domes'.
Wow. That's great. Can you describe the differences that you hear ?
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Thank you for the reply. Now, I see it. Top left corner ? My AR 3a's have L-pads, HiVi Q1R tweeters but the resistors were not added and they sound horrible. I don't even use them. I will be getting them corrected. I wish they had been done properly to begin with.
Edit - I'm thinking that without the resistor on the 'midrange' cone speaker circuit, the woofer and midrange response might overlap too much and you will get a peak in the response. If Roy chimes in, as you mentioned, he will know for sure.
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Don't you have to add resistors when changing from pots to L-pads as shown in the restoration guide ?
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I have a pair of the very early 6's. How many years did they make them with the woofer with magnets surrounding the voice coil and the inductor on the woofer circuit ?
Did the early 5's have a similar woofer albeit 10" ?
Picking up a pair of mint early 6's shortly.
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On 12/23/2020 at 12:43 PM, zelgy1 said:
Thanks Roy! I figured that would be the response, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I think I'm going to try the HiVi tweeter option for this project.
I would go with Roy's or Chris' rebuilt tweeters. I have HiVi Q1R's and I am replacing them with rebuilt.
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Thank you for that post ra.ra.
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Many of George Michael's albums have incredibly deep bass. Some bass reproduced by my 3a's on his tracks are not as audible on my 6's which are of the original and premium design. I believe my 6's go as deep in the bass as some AR 10" models. I don't want to start a debate about the capabilities of the original 6's. I still want to buy a pair of 5's to get the dome midrange and tweeters.
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I think the 1.5" AR midrange is much of the magic of the AR 3a and other models that used it. It covers a huge range of frequencies with incredible room filling dispersion.
Compare AR 2ax both 1st and 2nd generation to AR 5
in Acoustic Research
Posted
I guess with age and repairs, our same models can sound quite different. My 3a's are like 52 years old. It's amazing that they still work so well.