Jump to content

tvdantv

Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by tvdantv

  1. I’m considering shifting gears on the project, as a 930II pair has popped up locally w/ rough cabinets & rotted woofer surrounds.  All that the new center needs is the midrange and tweeter.  

    The mids & tweeters are identical between 1030 & 930II. The x-over points are close enough (just a different point at mids & woofers). 
     

    After reading recent posts regarding x-overs for either speaker, my question is this:  is it possible to modify the 930II x-over to eliminate the woofers and still present the amp w/ an impedance somewhere close to the 1030 (around 4 ohms)?

    I have very little experience w/ x-over repairs/mods/builds and would appreciate any advice. 

  2. Bill @ http://www.millersound.net/ repaired the voice coils in a set of 4 1030 woofers for me years ago. I listen to them every day & they are perfect  

    His cost was very reasonable (less than buying replacements, if I remember correctly). 

    In the “family” photo, he did my 1030, A70, A60, & HD5 sets.

    You can call or email for a quote. Tell him Dan in Chester Springs recommended you. 

    Best of luck!

    29F55BC1-690B-43B1-83B4-164813609970.jpeg

  3. joerand,

    I was just revisiting this string and noticed your post.  I have owned 830 (Series II) 930 (original) and 1030 sets.  I found a significant difference in bass response between 830 & 930.  Difference in bass response between 930 and 1030 less noticeable.  All are wonderful speakers.

    My listening spaces for these speakers are very large and L-shaped (LR open DR upstairs, Home Theater open to Billiard Rm downstairs).  

    I have to agree w/ Gerry.  My favorite of all combinations over the years, is 830 Series II paired w/ a competent sub (M&K are my favorites).  Honestly, if I ever find a nice local 830 II set, I'd probably swap them in for my upstairs 1030 set.   I'll stick w/ 1030 set for home theater. 

  4. I highly recommend reaching out to Bill @ http://www.millersound.net/ to see if he can rebuild it for you.   

    He has been able to replace spiders on the 4 BA made woofers out of a 1030 set, rebuilt voice coils and custom-cut aluminum dust caps for a friend's Totem (proprietary Peerless) woofers, and done countless re-foams for me.  The guy is a master craftsman. 

    If you can't get OEM replacements from Boston, give Bill a shot.  Tell him Dan & Ashlin in Chester Springs sent you.

  5. I fell in love w/ the A60 Series II in high school (mid-80's).  Although I've owned T-830, T-930, T-1030 (currently two pairs), I still love my A-60 set.  They are now paired w/ an M&K 12" sub and are glorious.  They provide wonderful imaging and are pleasant to listen to up through moderately loud volume levels.

    A pair can be easily found for $25-$50, they have a relatively small footprint, and parts are easy to find.

    You can't go wrong!

  6. Great info!  Thanks for such a thorough explaination of the difference in designs.

    I see that the 930 has terminals on the bottom, & 930 II has them on the back. So I imagine you are correct that the older 830 has them on bottom and newer on the back. 

    A neighbor loved the 830 set that I sold a few years ago to a friend. I'm helping him shop for a pair. 

    I have two systems w/ 1030's now, and do miss the 830 set sometimes.  Maybe I'll get another set some day when my wife is out of town:)

  7. Gerry,

    I see T830 pairs with binding post on the bottom, and others w/ binding posts in the back panel.  I'm wondering if this is an easy way to distinguish between your generation x-overs and the older version.

    If so, which is yours?

    Thanks.

  8. Gerry,

    Very interesting to read about the change in x-over design on the T830. Please see attached link: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/210503-building-c830-center-channel-match-boston-acoustics-t830-t930-t1030.html

    I noticed a big difference in the sound of the 'donor' pair vs. the pair that I've had since the early 90's. Is there a change in serial number or a date code that someone can look at to determine which version a pair fall under?

    Was there any change in drivers? Or could someone simply swap out the crossovers to achieve the improvements?

    Thanks.

    Dan

×
×
  • Create New...