Jump to content

Carlspeak

Administrators
  • Posts

    2,183
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Carlspeak

  1. 1 hour ago, ra.ra said:

    I keep seeing this discussed in various conversations and I have no reason to doubt it .......... but exactly how does cross-talk present itself in a measurable or perceivable manner; in what ways does re-orientation provide improved performance; and why was this concept not enforced by AR engineers when the crossovers for these loudspeakers were originally laid out for fabrication?    

    http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm 

  2. You've got a high likely hood of inductor cross-talk in a couple of spots due to their same orientation and close proximity to each other. One of the large coils in the left pic should be stood up on edge, In the right pic, stand the blue coil on edge. These changes should be beneficial to your speaker's performance. For more info. on inductor cross talk, visit Troels Graveson's web site. He has a nice chart there that shows recommended mounting of coils and distances.

  3. You can pay a fortune for Ohmite 15 ohm rheostats, or go with the prevailing recommendation of an inexpensive 8 ohm L-Pad with parallel 25 ohm resistor that will accomplish the same result. The AR3a restoration document goes into detail about the available options to replace the vintage AP pots. The recommendations are independent of the vintage of the AR speaker. 

  4. I sell a lot of premium linen grille cloth to vintage speaker owners. With it, I provide written instructions on how to install the cloth using a method I used on many cloth installs.

    Aileen tacky glue on all four sides, then fold the corners and staple only there. 

    PM me and I'll be glad to email you those instructions.

  5. I would refer you then to the published work of the late, great Roy Allison where he made measurements in a variety of real rooms. I suspect he documented well his measurement methodology. His AES paper is in the library. All others, I suspect, will have a lack of detail or be too variable to have any meaning.

  6. Here is a link to an earlier thread on oiled veneer. Even Tom Tyson has some advice.

    http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=581&hl=linseed#entry51242

    You can also use the search function to find more threads on the subject. Just enter "linseed" into the search word window, click on "Acoustic Research" to confine the search to AR and click 'search'

    I took a quick look in the CSP library but could find anything. I'm sure there was something published by AR about the care of veneered finishes.

    BTW, I would be surprised if vintage-AR's linseed oil (don't know if they sell it) is any different from what you'd get from a hardware store. It's pretty generic stuff.

  7. Very interesting, and well done. Undoubtedly many people will find this useful for broken Advents.

    Out of curiosity, what causes the 1-2K dip in the OLA's frequency response?

    Based on my tested of the one 'prototype' original on hand it was the inductor coil on the woofer. Take it away and away goes the dip.

  8. Hello,

    I was searching for a replacement tweeter for my large Advents, and found this. I have a set of the new Large Advents, and the later 5012/w's. I'd like to have 4 speakers all the same (stackable), and replace the tweeters (especially the fried egg ones) with something better.

    I've got the woofers refoamed, and the cabinets of the 5012's braced. I plan on using fiberglass packing. just need a little more information about the crossovers.

    Would the crossover you listed Carl work well with the Dayton RS28F-4 tweeters, and the original woofers?

    If so, could you post a parts list including brands, and a good place to purchase them?

    Maybe, also a wiring diagram, so an electrical noob like me won't mess it up? I can solder though.

    Thanks for posting all this info, I'm pretty eager to hear what they're going to sound like.

    Dean

    The crossover for the tweeter is shown and discussed in post #3. There's a 20 uF cap in series with the tweeter pos post and a 0.5 mH 20 ga. coil attached right after the cap and the other end of the coil attached to the negative wire. After the coil, attach a 3 ohm resistor.

    All of those parts are available at Parts Express.

×
×
  • Create New...