ra.ra Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 23 minutes ago, ar_pro said: ... place the ugly ducklings on an actual bookshelf, surrounded by books - or records! It ... still looks pretty fine. Very good point - - if the sound is the only thing that matters and the visuals don't at all, this solution works very well. Surround vinyl with more vinyl. And definitely, the dimension of the albums or coffee table books will help to conceal the ugly beasts. 32 minutes ago, genek said: ...strip a pair of speakers for about $10. ...or strip them for no cost as I have tried to point out. 39 minutes ago, genek said: ....get some sheer black spandex and just wrap the whole box... Uh-oh.... please, not those AR-93's and 94's again! Very well engineered speakers indeed, but well, shall we say, not among the most attractive products? Don't like the looks?....put a sock over it! This reminds me so much of Claes Oldenburg's idea for the 1976 bicentennial in Boston - his proposal was to place an enormous paper bag over the 52-story Prudential Tower, considered then (and now) by some to be an unavoidable eyesore on the cityscape. Not only did AR cut costs with the cheap cabinet construction and finish for the 93 and 94 models, but they failed to employ a qualified industrial designer to address the visual aesthetics that some potential owners (me, maybe?) desire in a product to be placed in their daily living environment. The spare, bare, and pared-down nature of my 'new' 18s speakers, with vinyl-stripped cabs, exposed MDF, cheap fresh caps, and retro screw terminals, is admittedly not suitable for everyone and their personal predilections, as was predicted at the very onset of this thread. That is perfectly OK with me, while still respectful of the tastes of others - - this project is just one set of thoughts about a rescue mission of one particular sad puppy with a huge, untapped personality that has found an appreciative and loving home. Mongrels only, no AKC pure breeds need apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 I didn't say it would be attractive, just cheap. You were most fortunate that your vinyl peeled off easily. Most of the time, the stuff has to be either removed with stripper or sanded off, and if you go with sanding, by the time you're done you'll probably end up spending as much on sandpaper as on stripper. And if you paint over the vinyl, either the paint won't stick or the vinyl will start peeling after you paint it. You don't really have to do much with MDF at all. Just sand them a bit and put some paste wax on it. http://sdrdesign.com/PBbrick1.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmas111 Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 ra.ra, Very impressive restoration! They look fantastic. Great idea leaving the natural MDF look then applying shellac finish. The rebuilding of the crossovers is very clean and professional looking. Replacing the crappy Spring Clips with Terminal's for the connectors is a very nice idea and look great the way you put it all together. Even identifying each terminal with a number makes it look professional. Thanks for all the great pictures and your excellent description of the step-by-step restoration process. You certainly have a great writing technique. And again as always very impressed with your knowledge/history of AR speakers. Like how you always come up the the original AR blueprints, BOM's and engineering notes. Thanks for posting this. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 10 hours ago, genek said: Most of the time, the stuff has to be either removed with stripper or sanded off.... Thx, this is good to know - - I guess I was fortunate with this pair, and I had anticipated that I would probably need at least a little heat application, but no. Perhaps I should temper my newfound enthusiasm for the potential of other vinyl clad transformation projects that have been getting some sneaky looks from me lately (Yoo-hoo, AR-XB turntable and AR-28B speakers). 10 hours ago, genek said: You don't really have to do much with MDF at all. Agreed, and thanks for that great image which shows off the natural honey color of better-quality MDF. And yep, paste wax is fun and easy to use - - I have tended to use Butcher's wax, available in clear and amber (and now brown, by popular demand!), but I also like Johnson paste wax. I think it may have been CSP member Roger from Reno who once stripped the vinyl off of his AR-7's, but I cannot recall if he ever used his favorite beeswax as a finish in that project. 5 hours ago, xmas111 said: The rebuilding of the crossovers is very clean and professional looking. Ever since seeing the quality of work in several of your projects, I've begun to pay much more attention to this. 5 hours ago, xmas111 said: You certainly have a great writing technique. Well, I hope you noticed who I quoted in the first post of this thread, and I have to say that the humor and attention to detail displayed in your AR turntable tutorials has stayed with me to try to develop a similar "tone" for an online voice. 6 hours ago, xmas111 said: .....come up the the original AR blueprints, BOM's and engineering notes. It takes a little digging, but I've found that the AR Drawings section (provided by Ken Kantor, I think) in the CSP Library contains a trove of information which is very useful in trying to better understand the history of the many speaker models and their various iterations. The labeling of documents is somewhat inconsistent, and for me accessing these drawings works better with certain web browsers than with others, but it's pretty cool to evaluate the original production documents as a starting point in a restoration project or as a confirmation of authenticity for collectors....or both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 This is my current favorite for wax: http://www.daddyvans.com/allabournafu.html Mix of carnauba, beeswax and olive oil. No scent, or you can get it with orange or lavender. No VOCs, silicones, etc. Food safe (not that you're going to eat off your speakers, but it's good on cutting boards, which should never have any kind of spirits used on them). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Wax on a cutting board? Wow....who knew? Very interesting, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lARrybody Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Old school Fine Wood Paste Wax. Do not used on oiled veneer if you want to re-oil in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted September 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 I like that wax, too, and the revenue from that popular product enabled the founder's grandson to commission this masterpiece of corporate headquarters in Racine, WI in the late 1930's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimpy Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 15 minutes ago, ra.ra said: I like that wax, too, and the revenue from that popular product enabled the founder's grandson to commission this masterpiece of corporate headquarters in Racine, WI in the late 1930's. Wasn't that a Frank Lloyd Wright design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar_pro Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Wasn't that a Frank Lloyd Wright design? Yep. Here's the Google streetview from 2013: https://www.google.com/maps/@42.7155046,-87.7915173,3a,75y,126.26h,78.86t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s8f2lds3WmEPVd1m_Zs53Fw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmas111 Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 15 hours ago, ra.ra said: Ever since seeing the quality of work in several of your projects, I've begun to pay much more attention to this. Thank you for the kind words. And your work is first class. 15 hours ago, ra.ra said: Well, I hope you noticed who I quoted in the first post of this thread, and I have to say that the humor and attention to detail displayed in your AR turntable tutorials has stayed with me to try to develop a similar "tone" for an online voice. I did notice you quoting me, I'd forgotten about that line at first. Keep writing in your style, it's very good and makes for easy understanding. And thanks again for all the information you provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted September 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Just wanted to include these images along with this thread - - these online pics show the AR-18LS, which I believe is Euro version identical to AR-18B, except for exterior cosmetics: cabinet styling, grille detail, rear terminals, etc. What I would expect to see is shown in first pic: square edge cabinet, vinyl wrapper, tweeter 034 with screen cover (shown next to little AR-8LS). Second pic shows a mild variation, with what appears to be the uncovered 038 tweeter and possibly a curious black stained pine cabinet? But I wanted to ask about the close-up tweeter pic that was part of this web link. It appears that the tiny tinsel wire leads are still connected to provide continuity, but clearly they have been dislodged from their original positions, as shown by the S-shape glue shadows. It is not at all uncommon to find these wires askew in an unintended position, but they are so fragile that they really should be affixed to the paper cone. Original documents show this adhesive named as Hapco 549-D - - - what would be a suitable type of glue to re-attach any loose wires on this type of tweeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lARrybody Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 9 hours ago, ra.ra said: Original documents show this adhesive named as Hapco 549-D - - - what would be a suitable type of glue to re-attach any loose wires on this type of tweeter? I have used black electrical tape on AR2ax's and 5's. How about some Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant on these leads. I might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted September 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 On September 15, 2017 at 9:11 PM, larrybody said: I have used black electrical tape... Yeah, this seems to work fine for keeping these tinsel wires "protected" along the surface of the baffle board, but the tape wouldn't be practical on the cone surface. I may just try something that I have on hand that can be applied with precision - - maybe simple water-based white glue (Aleene's) that dries clear will be sufficient here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 4 minutes ago, ra.ra said: maybe simple water-based white glue (Aleene's) that dries clear will be sufficient here. that would be my choice. Couldn't find any info on Hapco 549D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard saunders Posted June 9, 2021 Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 Acoustic Research Teledyne 18 LS I am looking to re foam my speakers I have inherited at present. I have heard good things about these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR55 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 If you are looking to replace the foam surrounds yourself, Speakerworks and others sell kits. If not, there may be a local speaker repair shop in your area, or you could send them off to Millersound. Make sure you keep track of the positive & negative wire connections, and you replace the seal when you reinstall the woofers into the cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofer_01 Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 "Every picture tells a story... don't it..." Here is my AR 18s restoration in pictures... Two comments... The crossover board is acoustically sealed with 2-sided foam tape and screwed on. The plastic framed grills are gently cleaned by soaking in roasting pans using "Wool-Lite" (last Picture). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofer_01 Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 AR 18B Restoration Set #1 Thoughts... Managed to track down a replacement grill... Grills cleaned same as above... Wool-Lite is great for getting old cigarette discoloration out of fabric (This method only works with PLASTIC GRILL FRAMES) The sound between the AR 18s and AR18B... They are very close...really The AR 18s is slightly brighter when doing a left-right comparison. WIll have more to say when I get more break-in time on them. AR Speakers in the works... AR-28S Orphan (Looking for a mate) Second set of AR 18B speakers due in (more on them later) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofer_01 Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 On 9/15/2017 at 11:10 AM, ra.ra said: Original documents show this adhesive named as Hapco 549-D - - - what would be a suitable type of glue to re-attach any loose wires on this type of tweeter? (This is an old post...) But if you are still here... try this using a Q-Tip to apply and smooth. you must It is best to place or bend the fine wire so it is close to the path you want, then hold the wire in place with a jewelers screw driver or tweezers while dabbing a very thin layer of the liquid on. It dries quick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killsapo Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Hi all, sorry to jump on an old post but: I found an old pair of AR18LS (euro version of the AR18s ?) and got them refoamed and paired to a Technics SU-8044 amp. I am a total hifi noob but I'd like to ask you what would be the advantage in getting the capacitor replaced (enhanced sound in some ranges, durability or what else?). Living in an apartment I can't really push them so I add a bit of eq especially on the low end, other than that they seem to sound nice… again, not an expert, just a music lover. I attach a pic, also have the grilles and the logos but I prefer them without. ciao from milan! p.s. is there something I should check on the amp too? was found in a humid basement and maybe owned by a heavy smoker… I cleaned the insides (veeery dirty) and cleaned all the pots but I'm no electronical expert alas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio AR Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Great speakers, even RaRa would have commented like that! There is only to check and replace the capacitor (a quality bipolar electrolytic at 50 / 70v is enough). You will have a beautiful and well-sounding pair of AR18LS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killsapo Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 2 hours ago, Giorgio AR said: Great speakers, even RaRa would have commented like that! There is only to check and replace the capacitor (a quality bipolar electrolytic at 50 / 70v is enough). You will have a beautiful and well-sounding pair of AR18LS. Grazie Giorgio, ops, thanks… guess I'll see if somewhere in my town there's someone who could do the job, the refoaming was done by Hi Fi Club Uniaudio in Milano ( https://goo.gl/maps/3XHUkovMHzvuuD1Q6 ), seemed like a great place for HiFi (honesty, courtesy and professionalism) but it's a bit too far from me for just a cap resoldering… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Welcome killsapo. Nice speakers and amp. I doubt that new capacitors in the speakers will make much, if any improvement. If you could do it yourself it would be worth it simply for longevity. I would be more concerned about your 1979 amp, found in a damp basement. I would recommend getting that thoroughly checked by a competent technician. btw, you can find the owner's manual, schematic, service manual and some other documents here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/su-8044.shtml You can download them free--all you need to do is register. Good luck. ciao, Kent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killsapo Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 21 minutes ago, JKent said: I would be more concerned about your 1979 amp, found in a damp basement. I would recommend getting that thoroughly checked by a competent technician. btw, you can find the owner's manual, schematic, service manual and some other documents here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/su-8044.shtml You can download them free--all you need to do is register. thanks for your input, maybe I'll try and look for a different amp maybe in a not-so-damp basement btw the insides look fine, no rust or aging, just dust and the strongest (tobacco) smoke smell… I guess it just sat in an apartment, not used very much and when the owner passed away the amp was stored in the basement (maybe like… 5 years or less?). maybe I should just crank it up to eleven and drive those AR18LS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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