DavidDru Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 I recently came across A carver C-1 preamp at a local thrift for $14. After a deoxit treatment it sounded fantastic. Traded it with a little bit of $ for some JBL 4313b's. If and when the Sunfire stuff goes, take a look at these WOPL options. The 700/1000 version is big time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newandold Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 1 hour ago, DavidDru said: I recently came across A carver C-1 preamp at a local thrift for $14. After a deoxit treatment it sounded fantastic. Traded it with a little bit of $ for some JBL 4313b's. If and when the Sunfire stuff goes, take a look at these WOPL options. The 700/1000 version is big time. Did you mean to attach a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newandold Posted July 1, 2017 Report Share Posted July 1, 2017 9 hours ago, DavidDru said: I recently came across A carver C-1 preamp at a local thrift for $14. After a deoxit treatment it sounded fantastic. Traded it with a little bit of $ for some JBL 4313b's. If and when the Sunfire stuff goes, take a look at these WOPL options. The 700/1000 version is big time. Ok I just revisited the White Oak website. Sorry I had forgotten I came across them probably 10 years ago while taking one of those internet trips down memory lane. Impressive work, but not a route I would have a need for (too much bulk for 5 channels) compared to Sunfire, which is a totally different design. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 okay after getting these put back together I am still not getting a slow enough return on the woofer with the finger push test. I changed out the foam insulation I use to seal the woofer with some duct seal/mortite in the hopes of that being the weak link, but it still isn't slow enough. What do you guys suspect to be my weak link here? Should I run a strip of caulk around the inside edges of the cabinet and at the terminal cup? I really hope it's not the seal at the tweeter and mid as those I have not removed and don't want to because of the front soldered connection. The original foam seals are still in there on those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 You could always try this test on tweeter and mid (and woofer), and if leak is found, use Mortite to seal from front side of driver perimeter. You will occasionally find evidence of this technique sometimes on drivers originally installed at the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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