TimmyTonga Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Anyone got a method of releasing the wires from these? I've had a bit of a frustrating evening...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 So these are both crimped? What do you need to do here? You can always cut and leave a wire stub long enough to reattach to. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimmyTonga Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Well, this is just an example really. On a the board of a 3a Improved a lot of the caps and resistors are interconnected by lugs, unlike the 3a. If I'm doing a major component replacement it would just be neater to be able to release rather than cut and attach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar_pro Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Those rivets...those miserable rivets. Other than snipping the leads as mentioned, you could try drilling the rivet out. Is that wirewound resistor hot-glued to the board? I'll just discreetly mention the notion of replacing the old masonite board with fresh 1/2" plywood, and starting with a clean slate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 If the lugs are crimped as well as soldered, you can't release the wire without prying the crimp open, and there's no way to do that without drilling out the rivet. Just cut and solder the wire. Sleeve the joint with some shrinkwrap. You can even buy shrinkwrap in colors and match it to the insulation if it bothers you that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimmyTonga Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 I feel honour-bound to use the original board, for some obscure reason. Maybe because it has 'AR-3a Improved' written on it in felt-pen.....as I have no papers on the back I feel it gives me just a bit more of a connection back to the factory. all 5 resistors are hot-glued; but dried out. All the 1 and 1.5 ohm resistors are reading 25% above where they should, although the 10 ohms seem spot-on, weirdly....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimmyTonga Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 That is a no-nonsense response genek, and I shall bow to the inevitable. And use matching shrinkwrap as it will indeed bother me that much. thanks all tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Try and wick away all the solder you can. get a pair of Journeyman's pliers and try to uncrimp on opposite sides of the crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lARrybody Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 I would drill the rivet out and get some of these and start over with a new terminal. http://www.alliedelec.com/keystone-electronics-8204/70182964/ Saves a lot of time trying to un solder and un crimp the connector without buggering it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 I'd drill out the rivet too and replace it with a rivet (or a short screw with washers on each side of the hardboard if you don't have rivets). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimmyTonga Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 It's seems impossible to wick away enough solder to release the wire from the triangle-shaped wrap-overs of the crimp. When I have got them reasonably well-separated the wrap-overs just break when I try to bend them back. If I drill out the rivet and replace with a screw, won't the inevitable nut on the other side mean that the board will not sit completely flat on the back of the cab? Thus leaving me with an undesirable gap? The board is not thick enough to recess them, I think..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmas111 Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 If you're careful you can drill the back side of the masonite board and use a bevel head screw like the one below. You probably want to use a 6 x 32 x 1/2" screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lARrybody Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 My local hardware actually stocks 6 X 32 X 3/8" screws. You will need a counter-set drill bit to recess the head. Better yet use a pop rivet, they don't take up much space and are fairly flush. I have this tool. Don't know if you have Harbor Freight in the UK, but Chinese tools are sold everywhere. http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-set-38353.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 If you use a shorter panhead screw with two washers and a hex nut you could hot melt the head over the hole on the inside. But I like the through bolt idea. Just be careful as hardboard is not very thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valkyrie Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 Cut the wire and move on. No big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 If the board is not mounted you might have a chance at some of the above mentioned fixes otherwise you can install some terminal blocks or similar depending on taste and availability. I need to order some of these anyway: http://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connectivity/teterminalblocks/ Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Roger, that might be the best option so far. terminal lugs pictured Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 Helluva lot of effort for something you're going to bury in fiberglass and hopefully never have to see again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 20 hours ago, DavidR said: Roger, that might be the best option so far. terminal lugs pictured Nice -- gives me some ideas. I was at the box store today and they had terminal strips. 42 minutes ago, genek said: Helluva lot of effort for something you're going to bury in fiberglass and hopefully never have to see again. Well, some people take comfort knowing they did the best job they could do and there is some pride of ownership in there as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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