ar_pro Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 I bought one of these for working inside of tight spaces; it was only a couple of dollars more than the Dremel right-angle attachment. Does the UK have a Harbor Freight equivalent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lARrybody Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 This little 5 position right angle drill has come in handy on almost all my speaker projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Self-tapping hex head screws work for me. Just make sure they don't go all the way through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 You guys have some cool tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimmyTonga Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 2 hours ago, larrybody said: This little 5 position right angle drill has come in handy on almost all my speaker projects. That is a top piece of kit larrybody/ar_pro, and if I made a habit of replacing boards I would surely be investing. As it is, I can't help thinking it will be self-tapping screws of some description. After all, I can at least pre-drill the holes in the board itself. having said that, I'm now going to go and look up how much they are....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar_pro Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Larrybody's Bosch is a higher quality tool; my 3/8" close-quarters drill only cost about $25 with a coupon. Roger's self-tapping screws should do the job, as long as you can get a good grip on the nutdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lARrybody Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Just make sure you know the thickness of the material you are going in to. Yes I have made this mistake before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 There are a few nice tool attachments for compressors too. Sometimes it's the big batteries on the cordless stuff that is the problem. I did buy one of those $19 small Black and Decker drivers and it has come in very handy for just about everything. Seems to hold a charge forever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iso Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 Quote Sometimes it's the big batteries on the cordless stuff that is the problem. I got pissed off on Friday, when I had to relocate one rectifier mounting hole in Scott 299D... battery of my 15-20 year old Elu 18V professional drill was flat and would not take new charge anymore. I had to use old fashioned hand drill. However, I have preferred had tools for screws anyway as you can feel what´s happening on the opposite end of tool. If you mount screwdriver bit on had drill, working time is not too different compared to electric or pneumatic tools unless you have to tighten over 50 screws. Kimmo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 9 hours ago, iso said: I got pissed off on Friday, when I had to relocate one rectifier mounting hole in Scott 299D... battery of my 15-20 year old Elu 18V professional drill was flat and would not take new charge anymore. I had to use old fashioned hand drill. However, I have preferred had tools for screws anyway as you can feel what´s happening on the opposite end of tool. If you mount screwdriver bit on had drill, difference in working time is not too different compared to electric or pneumatic tools unless you have to tighten over 50 screws. Kimmo Just put a new Stanley bit brace to work recently I had laying around for years and never used it ... the chuck will hold things that a driver will not -- great old tools. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimmyTonga Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Having recapped and resistored the boards, I put a self-adhesive neoprene seal round the hole as I'm not going to use glue For those that helped me decide on a fixing method for the new board and crimp alternatives, I used self-tapping hex screws å la Roger, and connected the big cap with terminals, as I figured anyone wanting to remove the board would probably rather not take that out with it, and it's easier than unsoldering if you're doing it a few times to assess tweaks. Otherwise I just soldered back onto the lugs when replacing components. I've fitted these with the original 3/4" rear-wired tweeters which were completely blown, but now rewound by Chris in New Jersey. Will report on this separately in a few days. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Nice and those cap mounts look interesting. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimmyTonga Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 23 hours ago, owlsplace said: Nice and those cap mounts look interesting. Roger I have assembled a disparate collection of clips, and can accommodate most sizes now, with a bit of metal-bending here and there. I'm not a huge fan of cable ties. A possibly unreasonable prejudice based entirely on how they look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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