lARrybody Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Like many of you I have cleaned my fair share of original Atena-Pollak potentiometers with mostly success and a few disappointments. Sometimes the corrosion has eaten into the metal rendering them unusable, but more often than not they clean up well and with some little tweaking of the wiper they are quite usable. A few months ago the mid range pot on one of my rebuilt of 2ax's developed a sticky spot (more like a bump in the road) that just started. Upon removing the woofer and fiberglass I de-soldered and removed the offending Potentiometer and disassembled it. I could see nothing wrong. Reassembled and the hard spot remained. I finally replaced it with another rebuilt unit. These original pots compared to the Ohmite RHS15RE's that I used on my AR3a's, leave a lot to be desired in build quality. I know the Ohmite's don't have covers, but a couple Red Bull cans and some tin snips takes care of that. I have used L-pads on some 4x's and others, but they are not what AR intended. The main problem with the Ohmite's is that a set of four can run over $150.00 with shipping. There are some Chinese rheostats available on the auction site for less than one third the cost of the Ohmite's. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130697097827?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The problem is these are 20 ohm and the original potentiometers were rated 16 ohm. I am not sure what the 4 ohm difference would mean installed in lets say some AR5's. Could someone explain the relationship of ohms verses impedance in these variable resistors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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