AR_REDD Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Hi guys and gals. I am new to this site.. I just bought a pair of ar3`s but the problem I have is one is a ar3 and the other is a ar3-a. I was wondering if anyone might have a single of either speaker so I can match up for a pair? Also which is better? the ar3 or the ar3-a? I will consider either single speaker. I am located in Canada.. Any help would be great.. Thanks for letting me join your site.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stan461 Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Are the labels still on the speakers? That would confirm it for sure. Also, posting pictures here would help. From personal use over many years, they both have that signature AR sound. You'll get many differing opinions on which is "better" but they are way more similar than different. Both are excellent speakers. I would be hard-pressed to choose one over the other. Maybe the AR3a is a little more preferable. Seems like there are more available and a modern (still manufactured) tweeter replacement has been found. I have tried the replacement tweeter on my AR3a's and they work perfectly. Not much help from me but....Welcome aboard!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR_REDD Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Thank you very much. Where is a good place to buy the replacement tweeter? Also looking for new replacement caps an attenuators. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Hi and welcome to CSP! Be SURE to read the AR-3a restoration guide: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/restoring_the_ar-3a/ It will explain how to repair or replace the pots (attenuators) and replace the caps and tweeters. You will also get a lot of help here. You ask a tough question. The original 3 seems to fetch a higher price and the drivers are hard to find. I have some 3s that I converted to 3a because I had one bad tweeter and one bad mid and it was difficult to find replacements. The project is described here if you are interested: As far as replacement drivers, Roy is the man to consult but I can tell you the 3 tweets can be found because they were also used in other AR speakers. 3a tweeters are unobtainium but can be replaced with Hi-Vi, a modern tweeter that works very well (I have them in mine). The mids in the 3 are ridiculously heavy, unobtainium, and connected with hair-thin aluminum leads--horrible to work on. The 3a mid is easier to work with and more available because the same driver was used in the 10-pi, 11 and others IIRC. The woofers in the 3 and 3a may be identical (cast aluminum frame and cloth surround) or, if you have a later 3a it may have a steel frame and foam surround. I love the cloth-surround woofers. Hope this is somewhat helpful and I'm sure other members will chime in. Read that restoration booklet! -Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR_REDD Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Thank you very much.. both of mine have the cloth surrounds. I just thought since the one tweeter looks different I would try and match them up. I would think by now the caps would need replacement and my attenuators are not a 100% I would change them if need be I could rebuild them if I had some guidance. This seems like a great site with a lot if helpful people. I paid $400 for my ars and just can't believe the bass response for such a small speaker. If you know where I could buy caps and attenuators please let me know thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Again--please refer to the restoration guide. The original potentiometers are no longer available. People have used Ohmites (expensive) or Chinese knock-offs but both require fashioning some sort of enclosure to keep the fg out (see my thread). There is also a fancy stepped attenuator that some have used. Best replacement is cheap ($4) L-pads, available from Parts Express or Madisound. You should add a resistor to the L-pad, but still cheap. Caps can be found at those same sites. Common wisdom is to use film caps for low values (say under 20uF) and non-polar electrolytics for high values. You may want to use film caps for everything on these speakers but the bigguns get expensive. -Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 The original pots can be cleaned and reused if the disks and pot wipers are not badly corroded. To clean them soak them in some distilled vinegar with a little bit of salt for an hour or so. All the green corrosion should be gone. Wash and rinse with soap and water thoroughly. Next use some fine 400 grit sand paper or sanding wheel on a dreamer and smooth the disk. A pencil eraser also works well. Prior to reassembly, smear the disk and coils with dielectric grease. Test with a multi meter, you should get from center 0-15+ and -15 ohms. The meter reading should be fairly smooth as you turn the pot shaft both directions. If the readings are jumpy, you're better off replacing them with L-pads as mentioned by Ken. Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Plenty of other threads to peruse through on here. Just look back through the pages heer and you will find just about everything and then others will help along the way. JKent has you lined you up very well. Nothing will be rocket science (I know because I can do it), but is specific. PHOTOS! And good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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