owlsplace Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Never worked on the 2ax but your description sounds about right. Here is a diagram from the library: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library/acoustic_research/original_models_1954-1974/original_models_schematicss/ar-2ax_schematic.html And here is a thread indicating there may be some variations: Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 That was the issue I was running into. I would find a schematic or picture and it would be a bit different. I have my original pictures and schematic I drew. I guess I just wanted to confirm that two ends of the caps both go to the common wire (blue) which hooks to the crossover board where the spool connects. Then the other ends go to the pots, one to mid one to tweeter. The 6uf to mid and 3.9uf to tweeter I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 These are the two best schematics I've seen for the "early" version of the 2ax. I think the only differences are the inductor choice and the added resistor on the mid for the 209XXX pair. Compare these with your speaker internals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 To be honest I have zero experience with reading schematics like these but if intuition and reason serve, the second one looks to be what I had in mind. The pots accept the 6 and 4 uF caps to #1 terminal of each pot (6uf to mid pot and 4uf to hi pot) and then the other sides of the caps converge to what is labeled 1 which on the inside of the cabinet is also where the spool thing connects. I've ordered putty and cloth surround sealant from vintage AR. It's all coming together! . Here's the original crossover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Also, can I use the aileens tacky glue to glue down the caps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupidhead Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Be careful with the wiring scheme for the pots! I believe you changed to L-pads and the terminal designations are different I believe. Terminal #1 on original AP pot may not be terminal one on L-pad. Not certain of this but I recall that in a thread somewhere! Personally I use Goop product for cap affixing, seems to me Aileen's may be a little thin to allow for a nice "nest" for the cap to sit in and may not be as sturdy as you would like. Many folks use zip ties as previously commented on. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Actually I got the original pots to work. I drew a diagram before taking the crossover apart. My main concern was the caps. I couldn't see inside the box the caps were in. The pots I'm just going to rewire as they were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 ooops. I wrote a reply about how you need to put in new caps. Then discovered that you did. Aleene's isn't strong enough to hold the caps. Best bet is either the nylon cable ties and mounting blocks or GOOP. Also, although respected members have warned against hot melt glue others have found no problem with it. I've used hot melt from time to time but still prefer the ny-ties. -Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 Everything's buttoned up guys. New caps in, horrible rock wool in (hopefully I didn't breathe too much), woofers with new putty behind and repeated. I still have to apply the cloth surround sealant but the woofers don't just bounce immediately back with a push test. I hooked them up today and gave a quick listen (daughter was napping) and they seemed to function fine. My initial thoughts on them compared to the Heresy speakers are that they definitely have a more mellow tone. I'm not sure how much that has to do with the caps but I'm sure the fact that the Heresy speakers are center channel for those big refrigerator Klipsch corner speakers means that they will tend to be brighter. My gut says the AR might do well with an equalizer to achieve my personal taste in sound. I'll have to be looking around. I know they pop up on eBay pretty often. I still have to address the cabinets at some point if I'm to call them "restored" but I can certainly say they are functional Thanks for all yalls help and advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 23, 2016 Report Share Posted April 23, 2016 Congrats, they look good from here. Play around with placement and pot adjustments to tailor the sound but nary a Klipsch will they ever be Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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