stupidhead Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 So 1212love, as you are learning there are many possible right answers on a variety of facets of speaker rehab. Cap brand is one, but don't overthink this. Looks to me like you will need some pots which will likely lead you to parts express for replacements. I see two pots that look to not be salvageable in your pics. These old AP pots are yet another topic of varying opinions. There are no new stock OEM pots available to start, nor is there an equivalent similar spec new drop in replacement. You can find refurbished old ones here and there on occasion. If authenticity is important then finding replacement old stock is your route, if not then there are options for replacements. Another point of discussion might be folks who think that just by-passing these pots to be an option. This, like the use of permatex sealant for cloth surrounds is quite prominent on many threads and forums and both should be avoided if proper long term performance is your goal. On the hot glue thing, I find working inside the cabs to be tight quarters and I simply put a blob of "Goop" where I want to mount caps and imbed into the blob. Is my way right....or wrong for that matter, no it is just want I have found to work for me. David above chooses a different method. Also notice wire ties or connectors as opposed to soldering, a perfectly acceptable alternative to all soldering. Also notice David has used a combination of Solen and Erse caps in the same crossover! I will guess that is what he had on hand or what a vendor had in stock during time of ordering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michiganpat Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 caps I usually use solens, erse, or dayton.... for attachment, I've done the hot glue or a dab of silicone caulk as far as the pots, i replaced the ones on my 2ax's with Lpads+ resistors, using the wiring diagram in the 3a restoration guide. I've gone away from using rope caulk/mortite or stuff like that, and using foam tape. it seals just as good and is a lot less of a PITA...this stuff works great http://meniscusaudio.com/gasket-tape-100ft-p-844.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 As with anything people form opinions by their experience. I'm disappointed about the pots. So the silver showing through is a bad thing? Yalls all turned out copper looking. Mine definitely have more silver than copper color. I guess I could hook them up and see if they work. I've read about lcaps but I would have to do more research. I'm not familiar with certain terns which slows down the process but the pictures people post help a lot. And obviously the advice in this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 As with anything people form opinions by their experience. I'm disappointed about the pots. So the silver showing through is a bad thing? Yalls all turned out copper looking. Mine definitely have more silver than copper color. I guess I could hook them up and see if they work. Is there a way to test with a voltmeter? I've read about lcaps but I would have to do more research. I'm not familiar with certain terns which slows down the process but the pictures people post help a lot. And obviously the advice in this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 1 hour ago, Evol2121 said: As with anything people form opinions by their experience. I'm disappointed about the pots. So the silver showing through is a bad thing? Yalls all turned out copper looking. Mine definitely have more silver than copper color. I guess I could hook them up and see if they work. Is there a way to test with a voltmeter? I've read about lcaps but I would have to do more research. I'm not familiar with certain terns which slows down the process but the pictures people post help a lot. And obviously the advice in this thread I thought the first one looked fine. The contact disc and rotor were originally silver-plated. Ohm meter across the nichrome coil will read around 16 ohms. Hook an ohmmeter up to the rotor contact and one of the other contacts and watch the reading as you slowing turn the rotor. There should not be any dropouts. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar_pro Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 6 hours ago, DavidDru said: I used these. Zip tie thingys that were attached with some glue and screws. The zip-tie mounts are great - the ones that we got from Monoprice came in two sizes, and had both an adhesive pad, and a center hole that would allow you to really anchor it down with a screw. We ran all of our home network lines with these mounts attached to rafters in the basement, and 5 years later, they're still holding strong. They make for a very neat arrangement on a crossover board, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 1 minute ago, ar_pro said: The zip-tie mounts are great - the ones that we got from Monoprice came in two sizes, and had both an adhesive pad, and a center hole that would allow you to really anchor it down with a screw. We ran all of our home network lines with these mounts attached to rafters in the basement, and 5 years later, they're still holding strong. They make for a very neat arrangement on a crossover board, as well. Home Depot had them in stock last time I looked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupidhead Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 18 hours ago, Evol2121 said: As with anything people form opinions by their experience. I'm disappointed about the pots. So the silver showing through is a bad thing? Yalls all turned out copper looking. Mine definitely have more silver than copper color. I guess I could hook them up and see if they work. Is there a way to test with a voltmeter? I've read about lcaps but I would have to do more research. I'm not familiar with certain terns which slows down the process but the pictures people post help a lot. And obviously the advice in this thread On the pots thing, don't be disappointed. My experience has brought me to the conclusion that it's about a fifty fifty proposition when dealing with these things. I am always on the prowl for these and an example was I bought a batch of eight scavenged AP pots and got five useful ones after cleaning them up. I have seen both silver and copper discs and as Roger indicated they are silver plated copper generally. Testing is easy once re-assembled with an ohm meter as well I also put a thin bead of dielectric grease on the contact points before putting back together and testing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 OK. Well I took a dremel tool to em the best I could. More junk definitely came off. I guess we'll see if I went too far (or too deep I should say) and ground off the plating. The last pic you've got there looks mighty copperish compared to the silver I see peaking through on mine. I guess so long as they make the connection that'll work. My voltometer has a setting for 10ohm, 100 ohm, and 1000ohm I believe I put one back together and tested it. It seemed to move the needle all the way on all settings. Not sure what that means. Maybe I hooked it up wrong...or the batteries on the meter are dying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 15 hours ago, Evol2121 said: OK. Well I took a dremel tool to em the best I could. More junk definitely came off. I guess we'll see if I went too far (or too deep I should say) and ground off the plating. The last pic you've got there looks mighty copperish compared to the silver I see peaking through on mine. I guess so long as they make the connection that'll work. My voltometer has a setting for 10ohm, 100 ohm, and 1000ohm I believe I put one back together and tested it. It seemed to move the needle all the way on all settings. Not sure what that means. Maybe I hooked it up wrong...or the batteries on the meter are dying. Well, short the meter leads together on the 100 ohm setting -- should read zero or thereabouts. Connect one lead to the center of the pot and one to either of the outer lugs. Meter should track smoothly from 0-16 ohms without dropouts. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Ok. I'm going to pick up the dielectric grease today before work. Sorry to show my ignorance here but my Dremel tool has this red putty labeled polishing compound. Is this appropriate or could it just gum up the works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Ok. I'm going to pick up the dielectric grease today before work. Sorry to show my ignorance here but my Dremel tool has this red putty labeled polishing compound. Is this appropriate or could it just gum up the works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 2 hours ago, Evol2121 said: Ok. I'm going to pick up the dielectric grease today before work. Sorry to show my ignorance here but my Dremel tool has this red putty labeled polishing compound. Is this appropriate or could it just gum up the works? That would be rouge in a carrier compound which would probably need to be washed off afterwards. I don't think you need it personally but it is up to you. I'm not a big fan of the automotive dielectric grease either since I have a container of it that has been open for several years and has become quite gummy and may eventually cause the rotor to lose contact with the disc ... just my 2-cents. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Oh ok. Yeah that wouldn't be good. I could just order some permatex. I just wanted to do one order and was going to grease the pots to see if they work incase I need lpads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Oh ok. Yeah that wouldn't be good. I could just order some permatex. I just wanted to do one order and was going to grease the pots to see if they work incase I need lpads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 53 minutes ago, Evol2121 said: Oh ok. Yeah that wouldn't be good. I could just order some permatex. I just wanted to do one order and was going to grease the pots to see if they work incase I need lpads They'll work with or without the grease. The grease is to prevent further oxidation. Local automotive supply should have blister packs of grease for $1-2 if you you want to use it. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 12 minutes ago, owlsplace said: They'll work with or without the grease. The grease is to prevent further oxidation. Local automotive supply should have blister packs of grease for $1-2 if you you want to use it. Roger Yeah that's what I had bought. They call it dielectric connector protector. Says it's rated to 150v. Is that high enough or should I just not use the grease? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lARrybody Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 I don't use the grease. I give them a shot of DeoxIT G5 Gold before putting them back together. it is suppose to clean condition plated surfaces, enhance contact, and seal and protect surfaces. Sounds good. Hey its made in the USA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 I'm with Larry on that one but it's not a major issue either way. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Ok so I put the pots back together sans grease. They read 2ohms no matter where the dial is or whether I put the voltmeter contacts on the two end posts or one on center post and one on am end post. What am I doing wrong? All the pots do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 7 hours ago, Evol2121 said: Ok so I put the pots back together sans grease. They read 2ohms no matter where the dial is or whether I put the voltmeter contacts on the two end posts or one on center post and one on am end post. What am I doing wrong? All the pots do this. Sounds like an issue with the meter but lacking further detail I at a loss to make any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Yeah it's weird. I'll give it a try on a different meter. Hopefully these little guys work. I'm itching to order the caps but don't want to until I know if I need something to replace or bypass the pots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupidhead Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 in any case you should avoid bypassing the pots. It does sound like a meter issue, generally speaking one lead to the center terminal and the other to one or the other of the perimeter terms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 So it was a meter issue. Upon using another meter they show 16ohms down to 0ohm (roughly) and didn't appear to drop out anywhere. Excellent! Now to order these caps and solder. I think I may pick up some of that sealant just in case. It wasn't too expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evol2121 Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Alright. The caps are in. I went with the Clarity cap PX line here. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/compare-claritycap-px250 The3.9 and 6uf. They don't appear to be polar. I've been looking for a good picture of how to wire these back in. Originally the caps had a green, black and blue wire coming from them. The green went to one terminal on the tweeter I believe. The black went 5o the other pot. Then the blue went down and connected to where the spindle/spool thingy connected. Can anyone point to a good picture of just two caps hooked up? Edit : found this So blue comes off the ends of both caps and goes to where the spool connects. Then green and black to their respective pots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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