Guest e.maynard Posted February 11, 2004 Report Share Posted February 11, 2004 Hi all!I'm a true AR fan and have been for the last 20 years. Currently I'm using a pair of 18S's for nearfield monitoring in my home studio. I love the sound of the original 1 1/4" cone tweeters, but, they don't hold up too long (in my situation) and they don't seem to be available. Does anyone here have a suggestion for a replacement? Any spec.'s or opinions are greatly appreciated!By the way, does anyone have a favorite 8" woofer replacement as well? It's goin in the same 9.86 litres (0.35 cu. ft.) box. I guess what I'm saying is if you had to replace both drivers (in each cabinet), retain the same basic tone while increasing power handling, what would you recommend?Thanks a lot, Erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninohernes Posted February 11, 2004 Report Share Posted February 11, 2004 I too use AR speakers in my studio as monitors. I have AR-2's. First off, dont replace the woofers or the tweeters with new ones, it will kill the original AR sound. Try to find original tweeters, and have the woofers repaired by Bill Miller at Millersound. If you replace the components, you will lose that classic AR sound. You just need a less powerfull amp. How many watts is your amp? I can give you some suggestions on some less powerfull amps, that produce very clean power. I have a pair of AR-4x's that are much like your 18b's. I use a max of 80 watts per channel with them. With my AR-2's I use 125 watts per channel, and my 3's 200 watts per channel. I recomend Adcom amps. Here is Bill Millers contact info:Millersound1422 Taylor RDLandsdale PA 19446215-412-7700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 >Hi all!>I'm a true AR fan and have been for the last 20 years.>Currently I'm using a pair of 18S's for nearfield monitoring>in my home studio. I love the sound of the original 1 1/4">cone tweeters, but, they don't hold up too long (in my>situation) and they don't seem to be available. Does anyone>here have a suggestion for a replacement? Any spec.'s or>opinions are greatly appreciated!>>By the way, does anyone have a favorite 8" woofer replacement>as well? It's goin in the same 9.86 litres (0.35 cu. ft.) >box. I guess what I'm saying is if you had to replace both>drivers (in each cabinet), retain the same basic tone while>increasing power handling, what would you recommend?>>Thanks a lot, >ErikErik, I have a few extra 1-1/4" dome tweeters from the AR2's and 2AX's. Also I see a few now and then on eBay. If you are interested, e-mail me and let me know. I fully agree with Joe. Good luck, Dale in Reno Nv... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bret Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 >Erik, I have a few extra 1-1/4" dome tweeters from the AR2's and 2AX's.<2ax domes in an 18?Bret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bret Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 You can find whole cabinet pairs (with all drivers) on ebay, often for less than $100.Sounds to me like you love your volume as much as I do. :-)Since these drivers really are irreplacable, may I make a suggestion?Fuse 'em. It must be less traumatic than having to replace the drivers.And I'm with everyone else - repair or replace what you have with original parts. It's not a "purist" thing, just an acknowledgment that when you change a driver you change the sound.Bret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest e.maynard Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 "Since these drivers really are irreplacable, may I make a suggestion?Fuse 'em. It must be less traumatic than having to replace the drivers."Using an inline fuse on the tweeter sounds like a great idea. Do you have any suggestions for what size fuse to use and how to connect it? Would one need to go inline both on the + and - of the tweeter? I wouldn't be opposed to a reset-able "circuit breaker" mounted to the back of the cabinet either. Any suggestions?Also, does anyone have a pair of original AR 8" woofers for sale? I'm currently using a pair of Layne audio "replacements".Many Thanks,Erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 >>Erik, I have a few extra 1-1/4" dome tweeters from the AR2's>and 2AX's.<>>2ax domes in an 18?>>BretBret, I am not familiar with the tweeters in the AR18's but it appears they are not the same as the AR2a or ax as you indicate. They are listing the tweeter as a "pressure dome" 1.25". I do not have any of those creatures..Thanks, Dale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bret Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Erik,In the library section of the forum lurks an AR-9 manual. There are "fusing directions" there with the type of fuse you'd want to use - you fuse the whole cabinet, not just one driver.Also in there, I believe, are the sizes of fuse that will pass "x" watts for "y" time. If you know what the power-handling spec is on the speakers, that would help; that is probably also available in the library section but I haven't looked. I'd probably use too low a value and run the risk of popping fuses too often - on purpose. Because the fuses aren't cheap that would probably motivate me to turn it down a bit.If you can't find this information, let us know. Someone out there probably has an AR-18 manual, unfortunately I do not.Bret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 >"Since these drivers really are irreplacable, may I make a>suggestion?>Fuse 'em. It must be less traumatic than having to replace the>drivers.">>>Using an inline fuse on the tweeter sounds like a great idea.>Do you have any suggestions for what size fuse to use and how>to connect it? Would one need to go inline both on the + and ->of the tweeter? I wouldn't be opposed to a reset-able "circuit>breaker" mounted to the back of the cabinet either. Any>suggestions?>>Also, does anyone have a pair of original AR 8" woofers for>sale? I'm currently using a pair of Layne audio>"replacements".>>>Many Thanks,>Erik>>Erik, I do not have any info for fusing the tweeter alone but the owners manual (available on this site) recommends one FNM 1-1/4 amp fuse be placed in the + OR - from your amp to each of the AR-18's. I have found Home Depot to be a good source or Allied, Newark etc. They will probably have a fuseblock that can be attached to the back of your 18 or maybe an inline block. I would only fuse one of the leads from your amp. Circuit breakers would normally be the wrong trip curve for the speaker and too slow to help. Dale PS: I have a set of 18b's that I would part with if you are interested?> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dogmeninreno Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Erik and Bret...Here is a link to the manual for the AR18. Dale http://www.arsenal.net/speakers/ar/ADD/ADD.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bret Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 >Erik and Bret...Here is a link to the manual for the AR18. Dale http://www.arsenal.net/speakers/ar/ADD/ADD.htm<That cleared-up a lot of stuff really quickly. Thanks Dale. Wish I'd bought the 14s that were on ebay not too long ago.Bret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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