DavidDru Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 Well, the title of my L1590 thread says "now what?" Apparently the answer was go and find some 910's! Mission accomplished. I had looked at a pair here last year that I didn't pull the trigger on having recently acquired some other gear and was capped out on my spending. With all the recent ADS talk around here and over at AK, combined with my love for the 1590's, I had to pursue them again. I found the old craigslist emails and relied to the owner and got lucky. He still had them and I picked them up yesterday. They are in pretty good shape. All drivers are great and the cabs only need a little surface scratch cleaning. No big dings or deep scratches to deal with. Grills are great, one small hole at the bottom. These have the LED meter lights. I got them running briefly last night but the crossovers need some attention. That darn 6 prong output connector sits too loose and had some corrosion. I hope cleaning efforts will remedy the issue for now, but based on what I am reading about these in other threads, I may need to replace that connector. If anybody has done so, and has advice, let me know. Shall see about other aspects of the crossover once I get the connections cleared up. I did get all new fuses based on he values in the owners manual. Richard So does an overhaul on these for $145 for the pair if needed, but I should be able to handle it myself. Only that connector would potentially give me a challenge. I remember also originally being disappointed with this potential purchase because they did not include the stands. Glenn sent me the plans for the stands he had come across so I will have a metal working buddy of mine fab some. My bet the only difficulty on those will be finding a good handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owlsplace Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 You're have an ADS addiction Looks like a fun set. Enjoy and I'm sure finding help on the connectors will not be too challenging. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 All the cleaning/deoxit efforts on the crossover paid off! Good as gold. Used deoxit with steel wool on the male end pins of the output connector cable too. These are some powerful speakers with a big sound, especially on the bottom end. I have then in my smaller listening lounge room where the AR3's usually are and they are too big for it. I am going to keep listening to them to try and determine the condition of the tweets and mids and if they should head down to Richard So sooner or later. I am not sure they have been used, especially by a good source in some time so little"break-in" time is not a bad thing. They need badges if anybody has extras. I also need to read up on how to biamp these. The crossover card kind of throws me for a loop. Although the crossover panel is easy to remove, these are not really set-up for quick rotation use. Here is a photo with the grilles on. The legs are the my Wharfedale stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakecat Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Looking good!...:) The drivers look fairly clear so may be a good sign as mine were dark and muddy from the fluid being overheated. The specs say those go pretty low so won't be lacking there. I wonder why ADS made stands for those with attachments on sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Yes lakecat, they go very low, very easily. So far they are not sounding muddy, but who knows. I will probably have them done anyway. In the manual ADS states that the ability to tilt them to fit the needs of the room was one of the reasons for these stands. The other being it limits contact area - speaker-stand and stand-to-floor to limit the transmission of the low frequency vibration to reduce acoustic feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 NICE! Yours are later than mine. These speakers are brutes! They have huge sound that's effortless. The more power, the better. Jumping from 105 to 200wpc was a jaw dropping experience with these! I have the stands. When I first got them, I had them on the floor, carpeted, so I could slide them around easily. They sounded amazing. Once I got them up on the stands, everything improved, better bass, larger sound stage, better highs. I have the LEDs, and the Bi-and Tri-Amp cards as well. I stumbled across them and grabbed the whole set as they are extremely rare. Don't know if I'll ever try bi-amping them, but at least I have the cards if I decide to try it. I have not changed the caps in mine, everyone that commented on my AK thread said they used very good caps, so I left mine original. David, can you take a good clear pic of the decal around the LED's for me? I'd like to replicate it in case I install the LED's on mine. (Note, I have read they introduce some distortion, and people with the LED's have removed them.) I'll be watching for pics of the stands your friend makes for you. Mine are painted a satin black. Glenn A few pics and getting them set up in the cave. The LED's and cards. Maybe these will be helpful for those that may want to make the cards from scratch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Hey Glenn, glad you chimed in. So cool you have the other crossover boards. I will be keeping my eyes open for the biamp card I guess since my other ADS and the AR9's are currently biamped. Would makes things easier. For now I might have to hook the 910's up to another one of my available amps to see what I get out of them. They are great sounding with the Audionics CC-2 amp which is 70/ch. I have the big Dynaco ST400 and that Pioneer SX5580 I could try. I was so happy when the cleaning work I did on the crossover connections and switches made them work as they should. Makes me think even if your's work okay, you might get some additional if you were to clean yours.? I am trying to tell in your photos, are you missing a badge? I need some for these and have a thread about them and folks are chiming in about how to make some over at AK BT. I cant recall if you had done anything yet to your cabinets. These will only need a light surface sanding with some mineral spirits I think and oil applications. I am looking forward to the results. I also wonder if I should look into rotating the woofers 180? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 On March 15, 2016 at 6:33 PM, DavidDru said: Hey Glenn, glad you chimed in. So cool you have the other crossover boards. I will be keeping my eyes open for the biamp card I guess since my other ADS and the AR9's are currently biamped. Would makes things easier. For now I might have to hook the 910's up to another one of my available amps to see what I get out of them. They are great sounding with the Audionics CC-2 amp which is 70/ch. I have the big Dynaco ST400 and that Pioneer SX5580 I could try. I was so happy when the cleaning work I did on the crossover connections and switches made them work as they should. Makes me think even if your's work okay, you might get some additional if you were to clean yours.? I am trying to tell in your photos, are you missing a badge? I need some for these and have a thread about them and folks are chiming in about how to make some over at AK BT. I cant recall if you had done anything yet to your cabinets. These will only need a light surface sanding with some mineral spirits I think and oil applications. I am looking forward to the results. I also wonder if I should look into rotating the woofers 180? Hi David, I did a light sanding and a light coat of Watcos on the cabs. They were in overall great shape, the stands keeping them off the floor really helped. I have the badges and restored them and reglued them to the cabs. That's how I stumbled onto the cards, looking on line for pics of the correct badge position on the cab, a pic of the card popped up, a few clicks later I was in contact with the seller, we made a deal for the whole lot! Feed them as much power that you have, you will be rewarded. Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 So I was just listening to them after dropping in a larger amp and one of the tweeters drops out! Uh oh. Fuses should mostly protect things but I swapped the crossovers (a cool aspect of these BTW for troubleshooting purposes) and no change. The tweeter still did not work. Yikes. I went ahead and pulled the tweeter. It resisted with a tight seal but i got it free. (Reminds me of the movies when they open a sarcophagus and the air comes racing out.) The wires were only twisted onto the posts! Now I cant believe these would come out of the factory like this but there is little to no other evidence that these had ever been opened up based on how well seated the tweeter was. Maybe the solder was cold and fell off? Does anyone know if the ADS connections were soldered or did they use connectors? The tweeter reads in the mid 3's so that was a relief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Does it work if you switch speakers, or connect the speaker wires directly from the amp, at very low volume? If not, looks like a package will be sent to Mr. So! Send him both so they will match. i was just in contact with him today for prices for my mids and tweeters to be rebuilt. Good luck with your tweeter. Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Fortunately it was just the loose wires. Back up and running. Used crimp connectors this time since I may send the drivers out to So at some point in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Good news David! If you get the chance to take the LED decal pic, could you also take a few of the wire connections too? Cheers, Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Glenn, here you go. I don't see a decal for the LED? It wires up pretty simple. The wire that attached to the top center of the card goes to the positive terminal. The other to the negative terminal. Mine is on the end post next to the negative speaker wire, but I think all three are the same when not bi or tri amped. Takes quite a bit of volume to get the lights to get going. Since we are looking at this crossover, I am wondering if I should be thinking about replacing that 90 mfd Mallory cap. I suppose I could easily enough remove it from the board and take it to my tech for a thorough testing with all his capable gear beyond my multimeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Hi David, Thanks for the pic! The decal on the front crossover panel where the LEDs are showing the watage output. I just pulled my mids and tweeters to send to Richard for rebuilding. The wires were soldered to the tabs. Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 Thanks Glenn. Thank goodness for Richard So! Okay on the soldered connections to the drivers. Weird my tweeters had nothing. Can a solder break apart and fall off over time if it was a bad cold solder to begin with? Lot of vibrations in a speaker. The original owner said they had never been opened up. I'll PM you a photo of the LED decal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 I would think you would see some residual solder on the tabs or wires if they were originally soldered at the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hi David, As promised, a few more pics of the bi-amp card. I noticed the value was scraped off on the cap, why I couldn't say except ADS didn't want people making their own cards? Anyway, hope these help, and there's some info in the cap on the web somewhere. Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 Perfect! Thanks Glenn. Can you just measure that cap to see what it is? Or is that "in circuit"? (I don't specifically know what determines if something is in circuit or not.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 I don't have a meter that measures capacitance, and I believe it is in circuit. The meter is on my list! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Glenn needs to post photos of his newly So treated drivers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Hey Glenn, not sure if this is any help, but you may be able to get close to determining those cap values if you measure the cap body dimensions and compare with this chart for Mundorf-E 100V (raw), or check the listings here: http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_bipol.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 Thanks ra.ra. A little weekend reading! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 A couple pics of the rebuilt tweeters and mids as David requested.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Quote I need to replace the woofer cap in my crossovers. They are 90uF 100v NPE Mallory. I would like to use another similar NPE but am having trouble finding a single 90 uF from any of the usual suppliers. Any recommendations. 2 smaller in parallel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD70 Posted June 30, 2016 Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 On April 15, 2016 at 4:57 PM, ra.ra said: Hey Glenn, not sure if this is any help, but you may be able to get close to determining those cap values if you measure the cap body dimensions and compare with this chart for Mundorf-E 100V (raw), or check the listings here: http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_bipol.html Hi David, I don't have a meter to measure capacitance and I think you are right, it is in circuit. I found out the card cap is 100uf, just in case someone decides to make cards on their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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