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AR-4X, Tweeter Control Replacement


Guest demaiom

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Guest demaiom

My AR-4X tweeter controls are no longer working. In fact, one of them seems to be a bit "fried". Layne Audio offers an "OEM type reproduction". Simply Speakers offers an 8 ohm L-pad (part A-542). Are either of these a good replacement or is there a better alternative? Thanks for any advice/suggestions!

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>My AR-4X tweeter controls are no longer working. In fact,

>one of them seems to be a bit "fried". Layne Audio offers an

>"OEM type reproduction". Simply Speakers offers an 8 ohm

>L-pad (part A-542). Are either of these a good replacement or

>is there a better alternative? Thanks for any

>advice/suggestions!

I'm sure that the Layne replacement part is fine, but I have never used it and have no experience. I do know that the AR Aetna-Pollock level control is 15 ohms, and that it can be completely rebuilt. It's definitely a pain in the tail, but you have no choice. I've done it many times, and if you apply a coat of WD40 on it after completion, it will hold up for a pretty long while. I did a pair of AR-3a's for *Stereo Review* magazine in 1994, and I completely refurbished the level controls and used WD40 after I was finished, and those speakers still work well today. There might be a couple of "drop outs," but nothing serious. I used a Dremel wire brush and then buffed them to a high polish. On some level controls you might encounter extensive oxidation and corrosion, and you may need to use a fine grinding stone on the Dremel to smooth that part.

--Tom Tyson

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Guest dogmeninreno

>My AR-4X tweeter controls are no longer working. In fact,

>one of them seems to be a bit "fried". Layne Audio offers an

>"OEM type reproduction". Simply Speakers offers an 8 ohm

>L-pad (part A-542). Are either of these a good replacement or

>is there a better alternative? Thanks for any

>advice/suggestions!

I do the same operation as Tom recommends and instead of WD-40, I use an electrical grease after rebuild. This can usually be found at your local automotive store and I believe it's called "dielectric grease". Normally used in distributers on the points and cam. Costs about $1.00 a small package.I would rebuild the originals. Tom is right on, It is a pain! Dale in Reno.....

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Guest demaiom

Thanks for all of the responses ... much appreciated!

As I indicated in my initial posting, one of the Pots is "fried" ... specifically, the wiper contact is fused on one side to the plastic shaft (I'm guessing due to thermal overload since my teenagers have been known to crank up my stereo, occasionally). For this reason, I'm gonna give the new L-pads a try and will report back my results on this thread.

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Guest dogmeninreno

>Thanks for all of the responses ... much appreciated!

>

>As I indicated in my initial posting, one of the Pots is

>"fried" ... specifically, the wiper contact is fused on one

>side to the plastic shaft (I'm guessing due to thermal

>overload since my teenagers have been known to crank up my

>stereo, occasionally). For this reason, I'm gonna give the

>new L-pads a try and will report back my results on this

>thread.

>

I have some extra original pots. If you send me your address, I'll send you one? Dale in Reno.....

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>

>I do the same operation as Tom recommends and instead of

>WD-40, I use an electrical grease after rebuild. This can

>usually be found at your local automotive store and I believe

>it's called "dielectric grease". Normally used in distributers

>on the points and cam. Costs about $1.00 a small package.I

>would rebuild the originals. Tom is right on, It is a pain!

>Dale in Reno.....

The "dielectric grease" is a great idea, and it would likely be much better than WD40 because if would not evaporate. I think I will go out and find some of this to use the next time I rebuild a set of level controls. Thanks, Dale!

--Tom Tyson

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  • 8 months later...

>>Thanks for all of the responses ... much appreciated!

>>

>>As I indicated in my initial posting, one of the Pots is

>>"fried" ... specifically, the wiper contact is fused on one

>>side to the plastic shaft (I'm guessing due to thermal

>>overload since my teenagers have been known to crank up my

>>stereo, occasionally). For this reason, I'm gonna give the

>>new L-pads a try and will report back my results on this

>>thread.

>>

>I have some extra original pots. If you send me your address,

>I'll send you one? Dale in Reno.....

Hi DAlE:

I see in this old posting you had some old, original AR l-pads. I'm looking for (2) 15 ohm jobs for my AR3a's. If you have some, what would be the price? Layne (aka lame) audio doesn't answer the phone. and Parts Express has been on back order for months. MCM has some but they're too fat in the body to install side by side on 1.75 inch centers.

Carl

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Guest dogmeninreno

Hi DAlE:

>I see in this old posting you had some old, original AR

>l-pads. I'm looking for (2) 15 ohm jobs for my AR3a's. If you

>have some, what would be the price? Layne (aka lame) audio

>doesn't answer the phone. and Parts Express has been on back

>order for months. MCM has some but they're too fat in the body

>to install side by side on 1.75 inch centers.

>Carl

Carl, I still have several of these pots. $10.00ea + shipping. Let me know? Dale

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