Installing L-pads

[Resident]

Using the 8 ohm 15 w l-pads from parts express and dayton 25ohm 10w resistors as per the guide. Question is on a few things so Im not destroying what I have.

One, on the l-pads, do I wire the resister in between the two labled wires themselves that are listed as 1 and 2 on the restoration pdf?

Two is, can I just cut the wires out from the capacitor pack and just wire in the new caps, or do I have to take it apart and go from there.

Thanks for any assistance.

[JKent]

Hi and welcome.

Are you restoring AR-3a speakers (doesn't matter--just curious).

The resistor goes across L-Pad terminals 1&2 (Remember: The L-pad terminals are marked differently than the pot terminals). Where you put the resistor doesn't matter, as long as it goes between those 2 wires. You could even mount it on the back of the driver, across the 2 terminals.

If you have the big wax block capacitor don't bother removing it--just cut the wires. If you have metal can caps they may still be good but if you replace them it's easy enough to remove them. If you have metal oil-filled caps with porcelain insulators you should probably use those.

Kent

[Resident]

Sorry I didnt even mention that these are AR 3's. Now dont I feel retarded lol. Yes it is the big wax block. It has the blue wire as the common, the black wire is the 24 uf cap, green the 6 uf cap.

So in that case the blue is going to both caps?

Sorry I do much better with photos lol, schematics always give me a headache

[JKent]

OK. Here is a photo of the AR-3 xo. Leave the wax block--just cut the wires.

Also attached is a drawing that should show (I hope) how the wires go. Yes--the blue goes to both caps. 24uF is the correct value. My drawing is marked 25uF because that's what I used. Close enough.

Note that my drawing shows the pots--not L-pads--so be sure to wire yours for L-pads.

Kent

[Resident]

Thanks so much. That is exactly what I was thinking but you confirmed it. Again I appreciate the assistance, and it shows perfectly what I was thinking.

Install of caps and pad in progress now.

[JKent]

Good! The 3 xo is much simpler than the 3a and I like the sound of the 3.

btw--I have some new polypropylene grille material and reproduction logos for sale. PM me if interested.

Kent

[Resident]

I did to from parts express. I think it is a 25.2 uf cap and the other is a 6. I am happy to report that mids and highs are much brighter now with the new caps, and I kept the old pots. Found that I didnt clean them enough, as there was just a small bit of oxidation left.

Once removed, they are working pretty good. Only one bad spot in one pot. I think I will eventually either go with the l-pad install that I have or I might try the attenuator from JV Electronics.

The l-pad install would be the cheapest route though, but do I really want to go cheap is the question. I was really going that route just to have complete control back instead of intermittent control.

I really do like the attenuator, only thing is, I can see myself mucking that up somehow xD

[Resident]

PS I might be interested in those new cloths and emblems.