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AR4X pot removal


Ed C

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My AR 4X's have the symptoms described in many posts here - the tweeters cut in and out when adjusting the pot and usually won't stay on unless I push the pot in and hold it. Clearly I've got corroded pots. I've read the threads that discuss cleaning them, but I'm puzzled about how to get to them. Is it necessary to remove both drivers and all the stuffing? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I've never attempted speaker repair before.

Thanks,

Ed C

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Welcome Ed

Carl steered you right---that's an excellent guide (thanks Carl).

A couple of other thoughts:

  1. You may want to consider replacing the capacitors as long as you are in there. Use one 20uF film cap per speaker.
  2. If you have rock wool instead of fiberglass, replace it with new Johns Manville fiberglass from Lowes. It comes in handy 9 oz bags. Early 4x's used 17 oz of fiberglass. Later ones used 11 oz.
  3. The "shroud" in the guide is Kimpac, a cellulose (paper) product that is there to keep fiberglass out of the woofer. If yours is shot you can use porous cloth or even fiberglass window screen
  4. The pots can be cleaned up and "may" work. It is best to check them with an ohmeter but you can replace them with L-pads from Parts Express. These work very well and never corrode. If you do that, ask for hookup instructions here.
  5. As Roy pointed out in that other thread, the amount of Permatex used was WAY too much. If you test the woofer as described and decide you need to seal the surrounds, thin the Permatex as Roy recommended and put on a very thin coat.

AR 4x's were my first speakers, purchased in 1969. When I restored them a few years back I, like you, knew nothing about this stuff. I got LOTS of help here and so will you. Have fun!

Kent

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