AR9LS Question

[nadude98]

I have a pair of AR9LS's that did not have the tweeter-uppermid speaker unit installed. My question is looking at the unit from the rear the polarity is confusing . On the upper speaker connections there is a sticker on the left with a big positive sign. On the bottom right there is a sticker with some numbers and a red dot. Looking from the rear I would assume that positive on the HF speaker is on the left and positive on the UMR speaker is on the right. Does anyone know this to be correct or not?

Thanks,

Jim

[nadude98]

I have a pair of AR9LS's that did not have the tweeter-uppermid speaker unit installed. My question is looking at the unit from the rear the polarity is confusing . On the upper speaker connections there is a sticker on the left with a big positive sign. On the bottom right there is a sticker with some numbers and a red dot. Looking from the rear I would assume that positive on the HF speaker is on the left and positive on the UMR speaker is on the right. Does anyone know this to be correct or not?

Thanks,

Jim

Bump....... does anyone know?

[Rlowe]

Bump....... does anyone know?

Hello,

The attached is the back view of Dual Dome assembly, I believe it is the same for the 9 & 98 LS(i?).

Hope this helps.

[AR55]

Hello,

The attached is the back view of Dual Dome assembly, I believe it is the same for the 9 & 98 LS(i?).

Hope this helps.

The back view drawing is correct. I own the 9Lsi & the 98 and both of them are setup that way. See attached crossover schematic for the 9LSi.

[briodo]

The back view drawing is correct. I own the 9Lsi & the 98 and both of them are setup that way. See attached crossover schematic for the 9LSi.

Agree with AR55 on that one. I have my AR9LSi opened up for refurb and took the attached picture of the 210048 Driver from the rear. You will find those three pictures attached along with the AR9LS schematic.

It appears the AR9LS/AR9LSi came from the factory with the Yellow wire to the + side of the HR. The one hitch in this is if your speakers were upgraded to the "Improved" crossover by a second party who may have simply swapped the Yellow and Blue wires at the HR driver terminals rather than reworked the connections back by the crossover.

The difference would be very subtle, but you will see what I mean by comparing the wire colors on the HR driver in both schematics. Easy way to check if the upgrade was done is to measure the resitance with an ohm meter across the Blue/Yellow wires (without the HR attached) to see if you have an open circuit. If the upgrade was done, there will not be a cap in the circuit measurement and it will read 1-3 ohms. If the upgrade was not done, it should be an open circuit.

If the upgrade was done, the next step would be to see which wire was hooked to the Black speaker wire connector, matching the AR9LSi schematic.

If the upgrade was NOT done, use the AR9LS schematic to match the connection to the Black connector.

I apoloize for confusing the question, but want to share the potential for misconnection since I upgraded my AR98LS and was tempted to swap wires at the driver until I realized it would not match the drawing.

[briodo]

Agree with AR55 on that one. I have my AR9LSi opened up for refurb and took the attached picture of the 210048 Driver from the rear. You will find those three pictures attached along with the AR9LS schematic.

It appears the AR9LS/AR9LSi came from the factory with the Yellow wire to the + side of the HR. The one hitch in this is if your speakers were upgraded to the "Improved" crossover by a second party who may have simply swapped the Yellow and Blue wires at the HR driver terminals rather than reworked the connections back by the crossover.

The difference would be very subtle, but you will see what I mean by comparing the wire colors on the HR driver in both schematics. Easy way to check if the upgrade was done is to measure the resitance with an ohm meter across the Blue/Yellow wires (without the HR attached) to see if you have an open circuit. If the upgrade was done, there will not be a cap in the circuit measurement and it will read 1-3 ohms. If the upgrade was not done, it should be an open circuit.

If the upgrade was done, the next step would be to see which wire was hooked to the Black speaker wire connector, matching the AR9LSi schematic.

If the upgrade was NOT done, use the AR9LS schematic to match the connection to the Black connector.

I apoloize for confusing the question, but want to share the potential for misconnection since I upgraded my AR98LS and was tempted to swap wires at the driver until I realized it would not match the drawing.

After thinking about this post, please know that if your AR9LS have not been reworked before, this situation is highly unlikely.

Don't want to create more work than you need!

Brian