AR2ax Woofer Removal

[Chip]

When I removed the four screws holding the woofer in place, I used a paint can opener to lift the speaker. It came right up, not stuck to anything. It appears that there is a comperssion seal between the speaker frame and the enclosure. It is in good shape. Should I reseal or use this gasket over again. It is untorn and in great shape. Please advise.

Chip

[Seabert]

I am in the process of restoring my AR2ax. Today I re-install the mid driver for one of the speakers. I was faced with the same question you asked. I actually decided to add a bit of caulking stripping to what was already there to make sure I had a good seal. I feel much better know even though it mean going to the store to find the stuff.

I was hoping that you could tell me what the screws look like? Are they bolts or screws? I can feel some kind of washer at the end of each of the holes which makes me wonder if the right way of attaching the woofer is with bolts like the ones used for the mid range.

Thanks

[Shacky]

Sounds like later model 2AX with those foam gaskets. Some say they get away with reusing. Since proper seal is cricial for bass response I'd suggest using new gasket material or more readily available putty. Best is Duct Seal Putty from Hoome Depot. Comes in rectangular brick - sometimes in electrical section. It's dark gray in color.

Moretite will work but dries while this putty is better.

[JKent]

Sounds like later model 2AX with those foam gaskets. Some say they get away with reusing. Since proper seal is cricial for bass response I'd suggest using new gasket material or more readily available putty. Best is Duct Seal Putty from Hoome Depot. Comes in rectangular brick - sometimes in electrical section. It's dark gray in color.

Moretite will work but dries while this putty is better.

This is the stuff Shacky is talking about

http://www.amazon.com/GB-Electrical-DS-130...9627&sr=8-2

And this gasket tape from PE is very good

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-542

Kent

[Chip]

About woofer screw. They are cross point screws, came right up, not necessary to press hard, just enough to seat the screwdriver and twist. No crud on them at all.

But then my AR2ax's are relatively new, circa 1975. Serial numbers 269000 and 269001. I have one open now, checked the rheostats and they are like new, no corrosion anywhere near them. Enclosure full of yellow fiber glass packing. And the caps were the old boxed kind.

Currently waiting for new caps and will refoam the surrounds. I am not going to replace the gaskets behind the woofer rims, they are in good shape, not torn, etc. They will satisfy the acoustic requirement, I am told an absolute seal is not necessary, just a good one to prevent rapid loss of compression. Might put a little goop around the speaker bolt holes.

Spent an hour cleaning off the inner rims of the speaker shell. The glue was some kind of rubberized stuff. First used an Xacto knife to remove most of it, then tried alcohol, helped some. Then went to acetone, helped a lot. I feel like the new glue will adhere to the surfaces now.

Chip

[Chip]

First enclosure finished. I left a schematic of the crossover inside the enclosure and the dates I did the recap and refoam. I did that because, I do not know what will be around when it is due to be done again. I would be 80 years old then.

I ended up gluing the caps on the crossover board using "Goo" cement. Big glob on the board and pressed the cap into to it. Then I got a terminal strip from Radio Shack, cut it into to units of 2 each. Glued them on and used them to connect up the wires and the caps. Stripped the ends of the wires and used my trusty 50 year old Weller Soldering gun and tinned the ends. After I screwed every thing down, I got to thinking about vibration, so I put a dab of goo cement over each terminal, vibration willl not loosen up the connects with time.

I used the same Fiber Glass packing and replaced it. I also used the same material that covered the back of the woofer, it was in great shape. So I just reused the stuff that was there.

Into the second speaker now. First thing I note is the wood is not press board on the sides. It appears to me to be poplar. Interesting, they apparently used what was available. The outer surface would be veneer anyway. Just a strong wood was all that is needed. The pressboard seems to me to be denser but in this case they did not use it.

There is an old hole drilled almost through the front, not painted black. I can not figure out what it was for. It certainly was done after the black paint had been applied. A similar small hole, again not all the way through, at the tweeter. Both enclosures had the oblong patch installed where an early version would have tweeter hook up. These are the 3/4 domed tweeters with ever so thin wires leading out to the edges. Black electricians tape is used to hold those delicate wires in place. Nice AR on each tweeter, so you know it is original stuff. Mid range has the fiber glass pad and wire covers. Did not touch any of this stuff as it was all in working order.

Now on to refoaming the woofer.

Chip